Arriving in Kaneohe
When you get there, then what?
Finding Kaneohe Bay
by Louis Ickler
Finding Kaneohe Bay is not difficult, but it can be confusing, especially if this is your first time. The mental image you have may not be what you will see. At the end of a long race across the ocean most of us are eager to get in and there is a temptation to skip some of the navigational details. DON'T DO IT!
The only way to ensure a safe landfall is to use proper navigational techniques. And you absolutely must have a copy of Chart 19359 (Oct 2003 edition) to enter Kaneohe Bay.
Let's begin with the approach. Most sailors think they are coming from the east and expect the islands to appear ahead of them to the west. Actually, since Hawaii is south of San Francisco's latitude, you will probably be coming in more from the north. Only the ULDBs and boats that can gain from sailing well south of the rhumb line will be on a westerly heading, and many boats coming into Kaneohe will not even sight the island of Molokai which lies east of Oahu, or Molokai Light, on its east end.
Another source of confusion is the orientation of Oahu; since the windward coast lies on a line from southeast to northwest and Kaneohe Bay is several miles from the east end, not on the east end. The answer to these problems of perception is, of course, to use your charts and make sure of your position before you are close to land. This will save you from sailing into Kailua Bay or sailing right by Kaneohe Bay.
By daylight you will see the high cliffs all along the north shore of Oahu, and at the extreme eastern end of Oahu the headland known as Makapuu, a 650-foot black cliff with a lighthouse near the top of the cliff. Makapuu Light is an occulting light, turning off briefly every 10 seconds, and is visible as far as 20 miles at night. To your right (west) from Makapuu, the lights of Waimanalo and Kailua will glow on the horizon, and just to the right of Kailua you should be able to see the rotating, flashing green and two white flashes of the aero beacon at Kaneohe Marine Corps Air Station (Mokapu Peninsula). (This beacon rotates red and white if the airfield is closed, which is unusual)
From about ten miles out you should spot an island, below or just left of the aero beacon, called Mokumanu, about four miles from the eastern point of Oahu. This marks the eastern side of the mouth of Kaneohe Bay. As you close the coast the aero beacon may disappear as Mokumanu Island rises in front of it, and the lights inside Kaneohe Bay will become more distinct. Remember to keep Mokumanu to your left, (the breakers offshore of Mokumanu are a very real danger even in daylight - stay well clear and to the right of the Danger Zone yellow cans A & E and flashing yellow buoys B, C, & D) and start looking for Pyramid Rock. Pyramid Rock is on the western shore at the Kaneohe Marine Corps Air Station and is on what looks like a small rock, but is in fact 100 feet up and has a 4-second occulting white light on top. This light and the aero beacon will line up to form the finish line for the Pacific Cup, along with a temporary strobe placed for this race, and you should be in contact with the Pacific Cup Finish Line before you get to this line. Since there are shoals to the east, it is prudent to finish close to the strobe on a course that will take you to R2 buoy. The finish line buoy is approved to be placed at approximately 21º 28’ 50” N and 157º 46’ 21” W.
Excellent! You have now finished the race. While someone is confirming your finish time with the race committee you should have the rest of the crew on deck and ready to turn right 90 degrees well before you reach the R2 buoy, a 2.5 second red light, that marks the start of the Sampan Channel into the Bay. If your boat draws more than seven feet and you arrive during a low tide, you will need to make this right turn and sail three and one-quarter miles on a heading of 320 magnetic to K buoy, from which you can enter the Main Ship Channel with plenty of water for any boat. If you draw less than 7 feet and want to use the Sampan Channel, you can return to R2 after clearing your decks and getting ready to motor or sail. For either channel coming into the Bay,
contact the escort boat on station at R2 to guide you in to the yacht club through whichever channel you elect. If unsure, your escort will be able to provide you with tide and depth information of the Sampan Channel when you arrive.
If you come in the Sampan Channel, follow the escort and line up the range lights on the shore in Kaneohe, a flashing red and fixed red. The channel gradually becomes shallow, reaching no less than seven feet at the inshore end. Leaving this channel your escort will lead you in a turn to the left, then past unlit G23 and the lighted G25 daymarks on your left and 4-second red lighted R22 on your right.
If you enter via the Main Ship Channel, take a heading of 227 magnetic at K Buoy (flashing a Morse A white light) and line up the flashing red range lights on the far shore. When you reach the quick flashing red range mark on a piling in the middle of the channel, turn left and now line up this quick flashing red with another occulting red on the shore behind you. This back range will take you in to the next turn at G15, an unlighted buoy. At G15 turn left again, and stay close to (but NEVER North of) a line from G15 to G17, a quick-flashing green buoy. You will pass flashing 2.5s red R18 (daymark), then flashing 4.0s red R20 (buoy). Look for a red daymark (lighted 4 seconds red at night) marked R22, just past the inshore end of the Sampan Channel, and keep it to your right.
From R22 to R26 (an unlighted red nun) at the north end of Coconut Island and then right and down the Bay is all easy sailing in plenty of water and usually a broad reach. There are two routes into the club, one north (actually east) of the "Coral Patch" and one to the south. Your escort will lead you to a point due west of Kaneohe Yacht Club and line you up to enter the south channel. The North Channel is trickier, with an unmarked shoal about 400 yards north-northwest of the "garbage can" daymark and you should have a long talk with a local sailor before trying it. From the entrance to the south, your escort wilI guide you in; look for the two fixed red lights on the KYC lawn for a range, and keep a square green mark on a stake at the south side of the coral patch on your left. Keep the three red marks on stakes on the edge of a coral shoal to the south of the channel to your right.
After entering the basin at the yacht club you wilI be directed to a berth by the mooring officer. If the moorings are placed as they have been in previous Pacific Cup finishes, there will be ten buoys placed about 100 feet west of the bulkhead at the club, numbered from 1 on the south (your right as you enter) to number 10 on the north. The bow of your boat wilI probably be tied to the bulkhead with a line from the stem to one of the mooring buoys, and you should have a long line available at the stem for this purpose. Be careful throwing lines ashore or you might hit the tray of Mai Tai's and cold beer coming aboard.
All of us at Kaneohe Yacht Club wish everyone fair winds and following seas…and no race has more of that than the Pacific Cup.
Housing in Kaneohe
Accommodations for West Marine Pacific Cup Racers, Families and Visitors.
The towns nearest Kaneohe Yacht Club are Kaneohe, Kailua and Lanikai - so if you want to be near your boat start by looking for lodging in these towns. There are no large name brand hotels in any of these towns - so think B&B, Condo and Home rental. In Hawaii, a B&B is not a grand old house with all the amenities- at a hotel like price. B&B's in Hawaii are spare rooms in someone's home or a guest cottage - at a very reasonable price. If you want a big name brand hotel, you'll need to look at Waikiki or North Shore - about a 45 minute drive from Kaneohe Yacht Club.
We strongly recommend beginning with HCVB's (Hawaii Convention & Visitors Bureau) website www.gohawaii.com. It has links to many of the following addresses. For those not online, some telephone numbers are listed below.
Regular Listings
This collection are the various ongoing commercial establishments on Oahu that are available. It you manage or own such an establishment we would be happy to list your informaion here (briefly, necessary contact information only). Contact us via email (walt@hawaii.rr.com) if this is of interest.
Some of the listings below will have many properties available, others will be singular. Also, many B&B owners remain independent of associations. They do however refer business to one another. If you speak to someone who is booked or cannot suit your needs, ask them for referrals!
Our B&B experts advise web searches as follows:
http://hawaii-vacation-homes.com
http://www.google.com and search on "Oahu Beach Rental"
Below are listings taken from the HCVB website listings, the Kailua-Kaneohe telephone book and the Kailua Chamber of Commerce. (We attempted to sort them to include those that should have accommodations on the Windward side but make NO guarantees.)
Aala Hale
808-261-7731
Access to Hawaii's Best
808-261-0766
A Kailua Beach Vacation Accommodations:
22 Palione Pl
Kailua, HI 96734
Ph.808-255-1983
http://www.kailuavacationbeachhouse.com/
dhirsch@hawaii.rr.com
Affordable Paradise Bed & Breakfast Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu
808-261-1693
http://www.affordable-paradise.de
afford@aloha.net.
Ali`i Bed & Breakfast Vacation Rental on O`ahu
237 Awakea Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
808-262-9545
http://www.kaysvacation.com
brenda@lava.net
Ali`i Bluffs Windward B & B Bed & Breakfast
46-251 Iki`iki St.,
Kane`ohe, HI 96744
http://www.hawaiiscene.com/aliibluffs
All Islands Bed and Breakfasts
808-263-2342
http://www.all-islands.com
All Islands Timeshare Resales Timeshare on O`ahu.
305 Royal Hawaiian Ave,
Ste 302
Honolulu, HI 96815
http://www.timeshare-hawaii.com
timeshar@timeshare-hawaii.com
Aloha Punawai Apartments on O`ahu.
http://www.alternative-hawaii.com/alohapunawai/
aloha-punawai@hawaii.rr.com
Alohawaii Properties By The Sea Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
481-A1 Kawailoa Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
http://www.kailuabeach.com
alohawaii@cheerful.com
Andrea's Vacation Rental
808-263-0308
B&B By The Bay
One room, queen bed, private bath, on the water. Walking distance to the Club.
Phone: (808) 235-2213
Email: tuturenie@aol.com
B & B Pillows In Paradise Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu.
336 Awakea Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
808-262-8540
http://www.isstb.com/pillows
103631.305@compuserve.com
Beachfront Kawela Bay Home Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
Lot 122
Kawela Bay, Kahuku, HI
808-737-6215
johnston@lava.net
Beach Lane B&B & Cottages
808-262-8286
beachlane2@aol.com
Bed Breakfast on Waimamalo Beach
Betty Miller
41-973 Laumilo St.
Waimanalo, HI 96795
Phone#(808)259-5313
Email: bedbreakfastbeach@hotmail.com
Website: www.bedbreakfastbeach.com
Best Beach Hawaii Vacation Rentals
310-927-8830
www.bestbeach-hi.com
bestbeach@yahoo.com
Elegant Hideaways
32 Kainehe St.
Kailua, HI 96734
(808) 263-0707
European Heritage Society
808-262-6026
Fairway View B&B
808-263-6439
fairway515@aol.com
Go Condo Hawaii Booking & Reservation on O`ahu
http://www.gocondohawaii.com
sales@gocondohawaii.com
2-Bedroom house,
Just 4 blocks from KYC
Spectacular Kaneohe Bay view!
Phone: 808-780-1691
email: bethg@hawaii.rr.com
Hale Mali`e Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
137 Mookua St
Kailua, HI 96734
808-261-1755
http://www.homeinhawaii.net
mgm@hawaii.rr.com
Haitt Hale
808-262-7170
Hawaii Aloha Unterkunste
808-261-5446
verena@hawaii-aloha.net
Hawaii's 10 Best Vacation Rentals
Over 30 Selected Beachfront Estates, Executive Homes and Cottages along Kailua Beach, Oahu, Hawaii
http://www.bnb-hawaii.com
Email: Peter Osborne at HawaiiHomes@hawaii.rr.com
Hawaii Condo Exchange Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://hawaiicondoexchange.com
ay@hawaiicondoexchange.com
Hawaiian Beach Rentals
Denise Pancurak
808-262-6968
http://www.hawaiianbeachrentals.com
Oahu Vacation Rentals
Multiple Oahu vacation rentals specializing in beautiful Kailua and Lanikai Beach.
Hawaii Connection Booking & Reservation on O`ahu
http://www.hawaiiconnection.com
hawaii@hawaiiconnection.com
Hawaii Kai Retirement Community Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
428 Kawaihae St
Honolulu, HI 96825
808-395-9599
Hawaiian Islands Bed and Breakfast and Vacation Rentals
800-258-7895 or 808-261-7895
Hostelling International-Honolulu Hostel on O`ahu
2323A Seaview Ave,
Honolulu, HI 96822
808-946-0591s
anaki@aol.com
Kahana Kai Estates Bed & Breakfast on O'ahu
53-103 Kamehameha Hy,
Punalu`u, HI 96717
http://www.kahanakai.com
kahanakaiestate@webtv.net
Kailua Beachfront Vacation Rental Vacation Rental on O`ahu
Kailua, HI 96734
http://kailuana.com
kailuana@pixi.com
Kailua Beachside Cottages
204 S. Kalaheo Ave.
Kailua, HI 96734
808-262-4128
Kailua Kottages
362 Kailua Rd.
Kailua, HI 96734.
808-262-1163
Kaneohe Oceanside Home Vacation Rental
Located near Kaneohe Yacht Club
Jackie Black 808-236-4277
http://kaneohehome.tripod.com/
Kolealea At Malaekahana Bay Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
56-253 Kam Hwy,
Kahuku, HI 96731
808-293-0335
pmg@carlsmith.com
Ko Olina Resort
(808) 843-2201 office
(808) 841-1512 fax
Fran Villarmia-Kahawai
www.kailanihawaii.com
www.armstrongbuilders.com
Lani Kailua Beach Rentals
Ula Romano
http://www.lanikailuabeachrentals.com/
Manu Mele Bed & Breakfast Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu
Address: 153 Kailuana Pl,
Kailua, HI 96734
URL: http://www.pixi.com/~manumele
Email: manumele@pixi.com
Pacific Islands Reservations
808-262-8133
Papaya Paradise Bed & Breakfast Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu.
395 Auwinala Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
808-261-0316
http://www.bnbweb.com/papaya.html
kailua@compuserve.com
Pat's Kailua Beach Rentals
808-261-1653
pgeo@earthlink.net
Schrader's Windward Country Inn
Phone: (808) 239-5711
47-039 Lihikai Drive
Kaneohe, HI 96744
www.schradercountryinn.com
Sharon's Serenity
808-262-5621
Sheffield House Bed and Breakfast
808-262-0721
The Viewhouse in Lanikai
808-262-0788
Team Real Estate Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://www.teamrealestate.com
luckyc@ibm.net
Trinity Properties
Annie Quock
http://www.trinityproperties.com
808-247-7521
VacationHosts.com Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://www.vacationhosts.com
surf@hawaii.rr.com
Villa Network of Hawaii Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://www.luxuryvacationhomes.com
info@luxuryvacationhomes.com
Information from the Kaneohe Yacht Club Escort to All Racers
You all know that the finish line for the West-Marine Pacific Cup Yacht Race is outside of Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, at a spot on the ocean described to you in your race instructions. You should have, and should review, a Kaneohe Bay Chart No. 19359, 11th Ed. 10/03. This current chart reflects all daymark and buoy number changes made in Kaneohe Bay during 2003.
If you have done this race before, you know that an escort boat will be on scene as you finish (IF your check-in data with KYC Base is accurate as you approach; otherwise, they’re on their way!). The KYC Escort Committee is ready, willing, and able to assist you with getting through the channel of your choice (either Sampan or Main Ship) and the surrounding reefs and turning you over to the Mooring Committee at Kaneohe Yacht Club. It is important to note that you are not required to accept the assistance of an escort vessel; it is your choice to follow them into Kaneohe Bay or not. The Escort Committee will be aware of the tides when you finish the race and will also know the most shallow depth of the Sampan Channel at mean low tide, so will be able to discuss your choice of channel, if you are in doubt. Keep in mind that, at mean low tide, the Sampan Channel has a depth of 7’ and is a sandy bottom. It would be helpful to let the KYC Pacific Cup Base know whether or not you want an escort boat and your preferred channel for entering the Bay when you make your 25-mile check-in.
Should you request an escort, the escort vessel will stand by after you finish the race until you are ready to proceed. Please remember that all escort committee members are trained volunteers who take their duty seriously, but that you have the ultimate responsibility for your vessel and crew. You’ve come a long way, but your job isn’t over until you are safely moored and we want to help you do just that!
The escort vessel will have some very specific instructions for you to follow, such as:
1) After crossing the finish line, you may wish to continue sailing until entering the calmer waters inside Kaneohe Bay. During the daylight hours, sailing in is preferred. However, arriving at night and never having made the trip before, it might be better to turn into the wind before entering the channel, drop sails, start your engine and follow the escort boat under power.
2) Have someone on your vessel maintain radio contact with the escort vessel at all times. The escort vessel and committee will keep a constant watch on your yacht as you follow them, but they must be able to communicate with you at all times to adjust speeds, make turns, hand off to Mooring, etc. We need cooperation from you to get you and your yacht safely into Kaneohe Bay and to the ice-cold Mai Tai’s, beer, and Hawaiian hospitality.
If your yacht draws 7’ or less, you will come into the bay via the Sampan Channel. The range marks coming down the channel are very easy to see at night…not so easy to see during the daylight hours. After passing R “2”, you will come down the channel on a magnetic heading of 208º M to the junction of Sampan and Main Ship Channels (just past GR C “S”, then bear left to 132º M until reaching R N “26” (just left of Coconut Island). You will then take a heading of 138º M and will have about 15 minutes in calm, open water to make your final preparations for mooring.
Drawing more than 7’ (and depending on the tide), you will probably come into Kaneohe Bay via the Main Ship Channel and it will take you approximately one to two additional hours to get to the Club. After crossing the Finish Line you will turn right and continue to sail on a magnetic heading of approximately 320º to get to RW “K-Buoy” off the entrance to the channel. Using the Main Ship Channel, your escort vessel will probably meet you at “K-Buoy”, rather than at the Finish Line off the Sampan Channel. The escort vessel will, however, be in radio contact with you immediately after you finish the race. You will proceed down the range marks at 218º M, then turn left at the lower range mark (sitting on a piling in the middle of the channel) and proceed to R “14” at 160º M. As you pass G “15”, veer slowly left and pass between R “18” and G “17”. Bear left again and head 110º M to the junction of Main Ship and Sampan Channels at R “22” and G “23”. Continue as described above for Sampan Channel entry to the Bay.
From past experience, we have found it critical to know how much water your yacht draws, in order to plan the channel you’ll transit and the place you will moor. Confirming that information at your 25-mile check is extremely helpful to both you and everyone involved in receiving you at Kaneohe Yacht Club. Be prepared to have a safe and fun trip across the Pacific…we look forward to assisting and greeting you!
Aloha,
Iwalani C. Stone
Long-Term Mooring in Oahu
Here is some information regarding available long term mooring once your 10 days at KYC has expired.
MAKANI KAI YACHT CLUB MARINA http://www.mkmarina.org/TheMarina.html (on Kaneohe Bay across from KYC) Email: http://www.mkyc.org/Contact_Us.html (808) 235-4416 (Rick or Terry) or Contact Mikihala Texeira at (808) 247-9680.
DAVE LUNG (private owner) (next to Kaneohe Yacht Club). Two floating docks available in very sheltered and secure cove. Will moor yachts up to 80' LOA with 8-10' draft and multihulls up to 30' beam. Includes: water, 30 amp service, telephone, dock box, parking and limited storage. $10.00 ft./mo., $400.00 min. Call or fax Dave Lung at (808) 247-1967
HEEIA KEA HARBOR (approx. 3mi. from KYC) (808) 233-3603, H
KEEHI MARINE CENTER (24 Sand Island Rd., Honolulu) (808) 845-6465
ALA WAI SMALL BOAT HARBOR
Ala Wai Harbor Master (Meghan Straits) (808) 973-9727
Hawaii Yacht Club (Port Captain) (808) 944-9666
Waikiki Yacht Club (Port Captain) (808) 955-4405
Ko`Olina Marina (808) 679-1050
Cruising the Hawaiian Islands
by Steve Hunt
OK, so you made it in the “Fun Race to Hawaii!” Why not go for a “Fun Cruise” of some of the Hawaiian Islands before returning to the rat race? That’s just what my wife Marilyn and I did a few weeks after we finished the 1994 West Marine Pacific Cup race.
Everyone knows how important preparation is for the race. Well, it’s just as important for a successful cruising adventure.
We approached both elements as separate projects. To do well in the race, off comes all the heavy cruising gear. Fortunately, you can ship your anchors, chain, dinghy, outboard and all the heavy items you can imagine from the Bay Area, Seattle or Los Angeles. We built a sturdy wooden crate to hold it all, took it to Hawaiian Express in Hayward a few days before the start of the race, and it was delivered to us at Kaneohe Yacht Club about 14 days later, all for a reasonable fee.
To plan our trip we obtained a Marine Atlas of the Hawaiian Islands, which had copies of all the NOAA charts, a copy of Charlie’s Charts and sought local knowledge available from many members of the Kaneohe Yacht Club. We spent about 3 weeks on our trip and feel that was adequate for the islands we visited. The best sailing in sheltered waters in all of the Hawaiian Islands is right in Kaneohe Bay. It’s a little confusing at first and you might run aground once or twice, but you will soon get to it. We did quite a bit of sailing in the bay before departing on our cruise of the islands. Our itinerary took us first from Kaneohe Bay to Hale-o-Lono harbor on Molokai, then to Manele Bay on Lanai. Then a quick look at Kahoolawe, and on to Okoe Bay near the southwestern tip of the big island of Hawaii. We worked our way up along the western shore of Hawaii, across to Maui and up along its western shore to Honolua Bay. Then on to the north shore of Molokai to Ilio Point and returning again to Kaneohe Bay to conclude our trip.
In more detail, we left the bulkhead at KYC at 0900 and arrived at the Hale-o-Lono anchorage on Molokai about 1600. The entrance and exit can be a little dicey with big waves, but certainly doable in most conditions. Just don’t lose steerage way. This is an old barge harbor and is protected except when southerly winds blow. It’s about the right distance to travel for your first day.
We left Hale-o-Lono about 1000 the next day headed for Kaena Point on the Island of Lanai. We tried to work our way west along the south shore of Molokai before going across, but winds were right on the nose. We tacked and headed for Kaena Point in 25/30 knots of wind, gusting to 35 knots, greatly appreciating our autopilot and dodger. We had been told this should be a good anchorage, although a little exposed. We decided it was unsafe under existing conditions and continued on to the sheltered commercial harbor of Kaumalapau two thirds of the way down the western shore where we spent the night. Interesting, but too commercial for us. The passage along the western shore was very protected and beautiful with high cliffs and spectacular scenery. Next time we would skip Kaumalapau (don’t these names get you?) and go to the Manele Bay on the south shore.
Twenty years ago we spent several days anchored in White Manele Bay in a small chartered sailboat, so it was fun to return. However, White Manele is now a marine sanctuary, so you can’t anchor there. We continued on to the harbor at Black Manele and were greeted by a school of spinner dolphins upon our arrival. The Harbormaster on Lanai was great. She couldn’t have been more helpful or hospitable. The huge pineapple plantation that used to be in the crater bowl is gone, replaced by the tourist industry. There are two beautiful luxury type hotels on the island. The Inn at Koele is up in the center of the island near Lanai City and is somewhat reminiscent of the Ahwahnee Lodge in Yosemite. The Manele Bay Hotel overlooking the ocean is equally spectacular in a much different way. We enjoyed a wonderful meal at each. If you want something more economical, yet quaint and with very good food, visit the original 10 room Lanai Hotel up in the city. You can hike, snorkel, play golf, rent a 4-wheel drive car to explore, or just relax. We spent five or so days on Lanai and thoroughly enjoyed it.
The next leg of our passage was the longest, Lanai to Okaoe Bay on the southwest corner of the Big Island. It’s important to arrive during daylight, so we left Lanai at about 1330 hours for an overnight sail and anticipated arrival the following morning. Typically you should expect strong winds and perhaps heavy seas as you pass by the Alenuihaha Channel. That’s another reason for traveling at night, because the winds and seas are often more moderate. A beam or broad reach should serve you well and keep you comfortable through this stretch. We sailed most of the way with one reef in the main, no jib, and were flying. You will probably get wet, but isn’t this what it’s all about? It’s great sailing in shorts with warm weather, even though you’re taking on some spray. Once again, the autopilot does the trick. Marilyn & I each took one hour watches during the night. It’s easy and fun to do for one night. We were advised to keep the wind abaft the beam and it was good advice. There is little point in trying to point up higher, more direct course, because as soon as you get in the wind shadow of Hawaii somewhere off Kona you are almost guaranteed to run out of wind.
Probably, the farther offshore you are, the longer you will be able to sail. You will still have several hours of motoring ahead. We arrived in Okoe Bay at 1930 hours the following morning, and were greeted by another school of spinner dolphins upon entering the Bay! It’s a little intimidating to cross the Anenuihaha Channel, but this was one of the most enjoyable sails of our trip. We were fortunate to have a full moon, twinkling lights from the island, moderating seas and wind conditions. Okoe Bay is very difficult to get to by land and possesses a stark beauty combining turquoise waters with lots of black lava. We spent three days exploring the ruins, hiking on the jumbled lava flow, viewing the blowhole and the breathing rocks, and snorkeling in several of the coves.
Next we headed north to Honaunau or the City of Refuge which is a National Historical Park; a nice park and well worth seeing. There is also very good snorkeling in the little bay. We continued our northward trek to Kealeakua Bay and the Captain Cook Monument. Here, timing is everything. This is a great anchorage, but, since it is now a Marine Life Conservation District and Underwater Park, you are not allowed to anchor. We knew this ahead of time and planned our arrival in Kaawaloa Cove for a little before 1300 hours when the tourist catamaran leaves its mooring and doesn’t return until after 0900 the next day. It’s OK to use their mooring as long as you are out of their way when they return the next morning. It’s really the only way to see the area since you can’t anchor. The cove is teeming with fish as the tour boats feed them regularly. This was one of our favorite spots. We were told there was a yacht club at Keauhou Bay and we could probably tie up there or anchor in their bay. Not so. They are principally a social club and have no guest dock. All the moorings were taken, so we had no other choice but to continue northward to Kailua, Kona.
We made the mistake of calling the infamous harbormaster at Honokohau Harbor. He says he controls the west coast of Hawaii and basically you are not welcome, as there is no room. We were practically ordered to anchor out in Kailua Bay and report to him upon arrival. We suggest you go into Honokohau Harbor, get off your boat, and try to talk face to face to arrange for a berth for a few days. Another option, if your boat needs some work, is to talk to the people at Gentry’s Kona Marina. We were there by land and they seem like nice folks.
The low point of our trip was anchoring in Kailua Bay. It was compounded by the fact that there were tremendous swells coming in offshore from Hurricane John. No winds, but enormous swells. Kailua Bay is a rolly anchorage even in the best of conditions. Since Triumph was rolling from shear to shear, we arranged to use a large commercial mooring that was available, went ashore and stayed in a hotel. Don’t even think about taking your big boat into the pier. Although you can take your dinghy in, the dinghy slips are rented, so they aren’t too happy about having you stay there either. We recommend making arrangements to stay in Honokohau Harbor, and then rent a car to do your land based sightseeing.
Next stop was Kawaihae Harbor. There are quite a few pleasure boats here, but it is primarily a deep-water seaport to provision the island. The harbormaster was very helpful. Matson Navigation has a container barge that comes regularly. When we were there, Kevin Costner and company were filming Water World, one of the year’s biggest flops. Watching all of this held our interest for several days. At the very least, this harbor is a good place to wait for proper conditions to cross the Alenuihaha Channel to Maui. We suggest an early morning departure, continuing north to Upolu Point before crossing the channel. We had a beautiful reach across in 20-25 knots of wind and moderate seas. Your destination should be La Perouse Bay on Maui and you can evaluate whether you think this would be a satisfactory anchorage. We found it to be a little inhospitable and continued on up the western coast to Lahaina. We looked in at Wailea, Kihei, and Maalaea enroute. We didn’t have time, but would like to have seen Molokini Island. Lahaina is a bit touristy, but always fun. The anchorage is rolly, but we’re used to that by now. You might get lucky with a berth in the harbor. It never hurts to ask. After a couple of days, we got one of the Lahaina Yacht Club moorings, rented a car and did all the appropriate tourist things ashore.
Next stop, just for the night, was Honolua Bay on the northwest coast of Maui. This is a very pretty setting, calm and no rolling. There is room for maybe four or five boats. It’s the best jumping off point to cross the Pailolo Channel to Molokai. A 0900 departure on a broad reach got us comfortably across the channel in 20-30 knots of wind. The north shore of Molokai is magnificent with steep cliffs rising from the water; clouds shrouding the peaks and providing the rains that feeds the numerous waterfalls. We had planned to anchor for lunch in the bay near the leper colony in Kalaupapa, but 30-knot winds and rough seas changed our minds. It was delightful sailing with the wind, so why stop? We chose an anchorage for the night, which was tucked around Ilio Point on the northwest coast just off the hotel. From here it’s an easy daysail back to Kaneohe Bay.