Handouts from the October 2009 Seminar

Attached are the handouts from the Prep Seminar of October 2009.  We hope you find these useful, and we'll be converting them into web pages as fast as we can.

 

Attachment	Size
Chamberlin's Getting the boat ready to race	24 KB
Chamberlin's Pacific Cup Notebook	4.82 MB
Kame Richards on Sail Selection	954.5 KB
Insurance Information	489.66 KB
Possible Emergency Rudder Design	143.59 KB
Morning Materials	457.5 KB
Afternoon Materials	56.5 KB

Outfitting Tips from Surprise

Steve and Sue Chamberlin were gracious enought to have their yacht Surprise available at the 2006 "Explore the Possibilities" Seminar held April 16, 2005 at the Strictly Sail Pacific Expo. Below is a collection of photos and tips provided by Steve and Sue on various aspects of outfitting your yacht for a long passage. Steve can be reached by email at Pacific Cup Inspections Chair. The images are larger than they are deing dislpayed. You can right click and save the image to your computer to view a bigger photo.

 

Foul Weather Gear Storage:

A simple piece of wood temporarily installed at the forward end of the main salon provides a means of hanging gear which will otherwise be strewn about the boat. Hooks or eyes keep everything from sliding to the leeward side; wire ties are used to secure the rail to the overhead handrails. Use plastic hangers.

Spinnaker net:

How could something so hard to see be so important? Voted the best piece of gear on the boat in 2004; prevents spinnaker wraps and makes douses very simple. Used with the double-pole rig you can gybe without lowering the net.

Jacklines and baboon butt:

In addition to the jacklines that run fore and aft it is nice to have one for the cockpit crew on the centerline from the companionway to the helm.

Cushions may seem like a luxury, but it is astounding how hard a fiberglass deck can become after 4-5 days. Inexpensive kneeling cushions from your local hardware store, or stadium cushions work well and can serve as markers to throw overboard in a crew overboard situation.

Storage pockets:

This neat little piece lives where a seat-back cushion would normally be. Tape labels designate crew names for storage of sunglasses, sun-screen, water bottles, coffee cups, and the like.

Pipe berth:

After five Pacific crossings there is near unanimous agreement that the pipe berth is the preferred accommodation, particularly in the rough going. They look more difficult to fabricate than they are; worth the effort.

Thoughtful Hints by Richard Leevey

At this point in your race planning you have studied all the technical aspects and requirements for sailing in the Pacific Cup Race. Here are a few things to consider that might help to make the trip more pleasurable for all, and might even make you faster in the long run.

For many, this is just another race to Hawaii, but for others it is the challenge of a lifetime. It does not take much energy on your part to contribute to a mood of caring, fun and respect for others. With a little advance thought and planning, you can help to make it the best time people have ever had. Challenge yourself to be there 100% for everyone’s benefit.

As you firm up your planning for the race, make sure to get input from the crew on any dietary restrictions or food allergies. Find out what treats they like to eat and get plenty of them. Things like fruit cups and pudding packs will be in big demand once everyone gets their sea legs. Avoid complex meals, your meals planned should be ones that everyone can easily cook and do not leave the galley a total mess.

As you create a plan for storing provisions, make a list of where everything is stored and post in it plain view. Attaching a 3x5 card on the outside of a storage area with the contents listed will save a lot of time digging for a specific item. Plan at least 4 or 5 back up meals, like heat-and-eat stew, in the event of extreme conditions when no one wants to be a galley slave.

Make sure everyone has a plan for how they will deal with seasickness. Even with the best medication, plan on half the crew being at only 50% for the first 3 days out. For the first 36 hours have plenty on pre-made sandwiches, saltines and cup of noodles type products to get them through it. Dehydration plays a big role at this point in the trip. I have found that Gator Aid or other balanced sports drinks really help to keep hydrated and keep strength up. Avoid anything with high acid content like citrus juices and coffee. If you are a coffee addict, break the habit well before you depart: you never know when you might get in time for a catnap and if you’re amped out on caffeine you won’t slip off to sleep easily.

If you have never slept with the aid of earplugs, go out and buy several types and test them out well in advance so you will have a good working pair for the trip. Believe me, you won’t find it easy to sleep without them. Make sure when purchasing personal items for the trip to avoid any heavily-scented products like baby wipes, deodorant and the like. The crew will thank you for this.

Some of the crew will take to sea life like a duck to water, while others will have a real struggle with it. If someone is having a tough time and starts to get run down with the routine, have flexibility with the watch system and let them skip a watch and get 8 to 10 hours straight sleep. This will make a new person out of them and you will all benefit.

When it comes to the chores no one really likes to do, like cooking or cleaning the head, don’t let the “nice person” always get stuck doing it. “You” be the person that that jumps in and gives them a break. When you’re going off watch in the middle of the night, go down 10 min before the change and heat some water for hot cider or tea for the new watch coming on. They will love the thought and it might happen for you too. Before it gets dark make sure to restock the galley with easy to grab and eat snacks.

When standing the night watches, try to keep the chatter on deck down, as the sounds carry below much louder at night. Try to be as tidy as possible with your personal gear and bunk area. Having to climb over mounds of boots and foulies to get to your bunk is no fun. Keep your personal hygiene up. The boat is too a small space to let odors go unchecked.

Bring along several disposable cameras and have them ready to grab for those Kodak moments, these pictures will help you to keep your memories alive for a lifetime. Every evening before it gets dark police the boat to make sure everything is in its proper safe place. Getting hit in the head by a flying ghetto blaster at 3 A.M. is no fun and very dangerous.

Consider a staggered watch system so that the new watch is not caught off guard by the current conditions (pattern of squalls and the like). This is also nice in that you get to share time with other crewmembers.

Plan for a grand half way party. This is where you pull out the stops with your meal plan. Bring on the big guns! Bring something special to share with everyone. You could have everyone bring a funny wrapped gift, and do a gift exchange after dinner. Onboard Ta Mana we even bring special party outfits like MardiGras, the more outlandish the better. This is truly the time to celebrate, for now you are further from any point of land then in any other ocean in the world, and half way to paradise!

If you like fresh fish and don’t have the proper gear for the trip, get it now. Find a real serious fishing outfitter and get a rig using a heavy handline attached to a snubber, which is attached directly to the rail. You will be trolling plugs, poppers and feathers from this line back about the second wave behind the boat (30 to 60 yards). Remember this line must be attended if you want to boat what you hook. You can start fishing about the time you are able to run with a spinnaker. If you are the first to catch a nice Mahi Mahi you will be a hero with the crew at that night’s dinner.

If you are better at something then someone else, like driving, surfing or trimming, now is your time to shine, take them under your wing and share your skill, the both of you will be better for it.

If at any point on the trip something comes up that bothers you, take the skipper aside and express your thoughts, or concerns before it becomes an issue. The two of you can come with a plan to deal with what ever. Sometimes it just helps to air out what you’re feeling. Just don’t bite your lip and keep it bottled up. It can make for a very long trip.

Above all else remember, this is “The Fun Race to Hawaii”. Be safe, have a blast and I will see you in Kaneohe.

Richard Leevey will be watch captain for this race onboard _Omega 1.

How to get a Crew Position on the Pacific Cup

by Paul Kamen April 2007

 

Dying to race in the Pacific Cup, but don't have a boat? Ma'alahi! (no problem!)  Every race boat needs a full crew, and a quick scan of the Kaneohe yacht club bar during finish week will prove that owners are in the minority.

The only problem is that this is a race that everyone wants to do, but not everyone has the boat, the time or the money run their own campaign. Owners have the edge in this buyers' market, and they can afford to be extremely picky when choosing crew. This is very different from local weekend racing, where anyone who walks down the dock with seaboots and a PFD is welcome as rail meat if not foredeck fodder -- if it doesn't work out, they are off the boat in a few hours. But for Pac Cup, the owners have the luxury of racing with the people they already know, like, and trust.  

If you know someone who is likely to enter their boat in Pac Cup, you know what you have to do: Start sailing and racing with them now. Be on time for every race. Bring the best snacks you can afford. Help them sand the bottom during their haul-out. Always stay 'till the last sail is folded and the last hatch board is in place. And if you drop a winch handle overboard, replace it with a more expensive model even if the owner insists that you don't have to.  

That's just basic good crew etiquette. The real Pac Cup challenge is finding a spot on a good boat run by people you don't already know. After ten Pacific Cups on OPBs (Other Peoples' Boats), here are some basics to keep in mind:

1) Start early. Planning for this project usually begins a year in advance, so make it known that you want in and that you can contribute to preparing the boat, that you are available to race locally and can participate in the practice sails. Put your name on the Pac Cup website, place and ad in Latitute, and don't miss a Safety at Sea seminar or any other Pac Cup function.

2) Keep the dates open right up to the last minute. The first window for signing on as crew is about six months to a year or more before the start, when the teams are forming. Then as T-minus three months passes, the crew is set on nearly all boats, and very few new spots come open. But in the final weeks, things change. Crew have sudden meltdowns at work, their backs go out, they have new family commitments, and if you don't mind circling the fleet like a vulture during the final days before the race, odds of finding a spot that some unlucky sailor had to vacate become fair to excellent. (Hey, someone has to eat the carrion....)  

It doesn't happen every year, but it's not unusual for the word to go out during the Bon Voyage Party that a berth is suddenly available. In the '96 race, one boat even picked up a new crew right from the St. Francis guest dock, within an hour of their start.

But to take advantage of these last-minute openings, you have to keep your schedule clear right up through the night before the last start. This is the hard part - everyone makes other plans for the last two weeks in July. And that's exactly why those last-minute crew spots can be hard to fill, and why, if you are in the right place at the right time and still available, you're on. And there's a fringe benefit: you will have missed all the work parties getting the boat ready for the race! (On the other hand, if you follow these instructions, you will have already done far more than your share by assisting the race organizers.)

3) Volunteer. The people who put on the Pacific Cup do as much work as the people preparing their boats to race, and they always need more hands. A lot of the tasks involve organizational logistics: Producing the race guide, making arrangements for the meetings, seminars and parties, inspecting boats, finding sponsors, dealing with shipping and insurance companies. You almost certainly have a skill that they need, and after months of working closely with the race organizers they will be in a position to give you a personal recommendation when a late crew spot comes open on a good boat.  

Remember, crew for Pacific Cup should be selected based on the answer to this question: "Would I spend two weeks locked in a bathroom with this person?" So the personality and character reference is all-important. The people who can give these references when they make a difference are the same people who need your help putting on all the pre-race events.  

4) Join the Pacific Cup Yacht Club and help work the booth at the boat show. Not only is this a great way to get into the boat show for free, but all the owners planning to do the race will stop by. If any of them are looking for crew you'll be the first to know.

5) Acquire some specialized skills. A ham radio license is a relatively easy one, for example. A medical background (cardiology in particular) seems to be in high demand. Cooking can be a ticket for a ride on a big boat, but you'll have to be good -- or get some very good advice -- to learn the shortcuts that will let you feed a big crew and still have enough time left over to enjoy the sailing. Ability to repair sails or diesel engines or electrical systems looks good on the resume. If you have the skills to build the emergency rudder or install  the SSB you can make yourself more valuable to the team. 

6) Buy into a charter. Some boats ask for a substantial buy-in to defray most or all of the cost. But be careful: When crew are chosen based on ability to pay instead of character, skill and experience -- and when many thousands of dollars have been spent to be cold, wet, tired and scared while using up a year's worth of vacation time -- a happy ship is unlikely. Not that it isn't worth doing anyway. Maybe the trick is to never think about what the same amount of money could have bought at a luxury resort...

7) Do a return delivery to get some sea time. If you have never made a long ocean crossing, there is an opportunity to do this at very low cost. Anyone caught near Waikiki or Hawaii yacht clubs towards the end of July in any odd-numbered year will be asked to join a delivery crew bringing a Transpac boat back to California. Experienced delivery crew get paid for this, but as a beginner you can usually expect a free boat ride but no air fare. The trip might involve a lot of heavy upwind sailing and/or motoring, but it's still a crossing and still adds chapters to your sailing experience. "Diesel costs less than sails" read the big sign in Merlin's cabin one year.  

8) Bring something they need. This can be a certified raft that meets the requirements, a Single Sideband Radio, an emergency rudder or even a few spinnakers that are approximately the right size.  

9) Be available for the return delivery. This might add another three or four weeks to the time commitment, but it makes you far more desirable as crew. Having done the return trip once before is a big plus here.  

10) Don't be too particular. A ride on a "bad" boat is far better than no ride at all. And you have to start somewhere. Let me take that back: There is no such thing as a "bad" ride in the Pacific Cup.

Alternate Steering Method

If your rudder fails, and somebody's will, you need a way to steer the boat. Does not have to be a rudder, but it really does have to work.

Boat Prep

Boat Preparation. That's 50% of the race right there.

Energy Management

The production of adequate electric power to perform your lighting and communications requirements, as well as any cooling, inside lighting, navigation and other modern conveniences you may require is important to a safe and comfortable passage.

Many skippers take their boats "off the grid" for a month or so before the race to reveal any weaknesses in their charging and battery systems.

A worksheet is provided which may be of assistance to you and will meet the requirements of the NOR. 

Attachment	Size
energyplan.xls	25 KB

Sails

The race is still for sailboats only.

What to Bring and Wear

What to Bring & Wear

You are about to embark on the adventure of a lifetime – a Pacific crossing! You’ve read the books, attended seminars but one question remains – what to wear? The following information should help you in your preparation for the West Marine Pacific Cup Race to Hawaii or any extended ocean passage from cooler waters to a warm climate.

The first two or three days out of San Francisco, boats are generally on a wet beam reach. The weather is often typical of the City: windy, foggy and cool. The main goal will be to stay warm and dry – layering is the key here. Clothing should consist of full waterproof foul weather gear with a good collar, boots, warm socks, warm long underwear, warm pullover top, a warm hat and waterproof gloves. Insulating layers should be very heavy weight polypro or capilene wicking fleece. Doublehanders may want to consider dry suits. Each crewmember should have a safety harness, tether, life jacket, personal strobe, personal flares, and a whistle, all of which should be worn 100% of the time while on deck. Off watch crewmembers should remove foul weather gear before climbing in their berths, as hypothermia is a real risk here. Keep foulies and safety gear together, neat and nearby so you can get into them and on deck at a moment’s notice.

After the first few days the cool weather and steeper swells should abate and you should be getting more warm sunny days, and the heavier gear will be less necessary. Fleece sweaters with a light jacket will usually be all you need for night watches. Now the main goal will be to stay comfortable and avoid sunburns and boat butt. There are few places to get out of the sun while on deck. Direct sunlight and reflections from the water, sails, and light-colored decks all contribute to possible sunburns. Waterproof sunscreen and lip balm with a high SPF rating for all exposed skin combined with a lightweight long sleeve shirt, lightweight supplex pants, a hat with a good brim and a pair of good sunglasses with croakies will become your best friends in this UV intensive environment. Avoid sitting on wet cushions: if your bottom does get wet, change into dry clothes right away. If you don’t want to get a flaming case of boat butt, (ouch) keep it dry! When choosing warm weather clothing remember – synthetics work best. Do not take down jackets or sleeping bags. Limit your cotton clothing to perhaps long sleeve sun shirts. Both down and cotton absorb moisture and hold it, increasing your risk of hypothermia. Your best choice would be some type of synthetic fleece for anything worn next to your skin as well as additional insulation layers. Supplex is a synthetic material which sheds water and is extremely lightweight. Shorts, long pants and hats made of this material are a favorite for warm weather. You will need a medium to light weight synthetic sleeping bag for the first few nights, then you will be plenty warm with a sheet and light blanket for the balance of the trip. Don’t forget a comfortable pillow.

How to Pack

Pack your clothing in separate waterproof bags. Ziplock Freezer bags work well to keep things organized and dry. Try to squeeze out all the air before sealing the bags to save space. Bring along extra bags for your dirty clothing; it will help keep your gear bag and the boat smelling better. You will usually not be doing any laundry on the passage so plan your clothing accordingly.

Other Personal Gear to Consider

A self-illuminating wristwatch with an easy to work alarm is a must. A rigging knife should have a lanyard to attach to your gear. A personal pen type flashlight with a red lens cover is essential for night watches. A headlight for working on the foredeck at night is very useful as well. If you wear corrective lens glasses, bring an extra pair. A second pair of sunglasses is a good idea as well. If you like music, a personal player with earphones and plenty of extra batteries is nice. If you like to read, bring along a couple of good paperbacks and a journal keep a record of your passage. Don’t forget your camera with plenty of rolls of film.

You should have a bag with basic over-the-counter medical items like Ibuprofen, Benadryl, Imodium, decongestants, antacids, Neosporin cream and anything else that you might need. If you take prescription medication, get new prescriptions filled and allow for a 30-day supply.

You can get travel size personal care items to help keep the space down. Things like shampoo, toothpaste, unscented deodorant, can all be fit nicely into a small ziplock freezer bag.

All of your gear should fit into one sailing gear bag and one clothing duffel bag. The only exception should be for your sleeping bag and pillow. Space will be at a premium and no one likes a cluttered boat. The goal here is not bring along extra things that you might not need. You can ship over a bag with your Hawaii gear and it will be waiting for you when you arrive.

I hope this helps you to get a good overview of what to wear and the items you will need to bring along. Stay warm, dry, comfortable and safe.

This article was updated for this Race Guide by: Richard Leevey. It was originally written by: Leanne Burr for the 1996 Race Guide.

Medical Preparation and Emergencies

Be Safe

Insurance

Struggling at obtaining insurance?

Following are observations, ideas and things to consider when pursuing insurance for the Pacific Cup. Please take this information with an open mind as we are not experts in boat insurance and risk analysis. Obtaining insurance for your boat, that also includes coverage for a race to Hawaii, requires hard decisions, money, uncertainty and knowing your own risk adversity (sounds like playing the stock market doesn't it?). The author, and Pacific Cup Yacht Club, takes no responsibility for the following as it is based on anecdotal informal and not extensive research. Now that our rear is covered, here are some observations you may find useful.

You need your annual insurance policy to be with the same company that will provide you coverage for the race. Most insurance carriers believe insuring boats crossing oceans is significantly riskier then insuring a boat that sails locally and spends much of its time sitting in a slip. Your insurance broker may need to spend significant time getting you the extra insurance you'll want for the race. Your insurance broker will be spending time talking to you about your options (coverage, exclusions and costs) as well as working with the insurance carriers to find you the coverage you want. Brokers are not interested in spending several hours with someone just to get their insurance business for the race - or even just one year. They want to know they will obtain several years of insurance premiums from you as it will probably be after the second year before they start making money from your business. So, a "catch 22" for this years race, you need to shop for your annual boat insurance a year or two before the race - with an offshore boat knowledgeable broker who can later insure you for the race. You will need to sell the agent that you are a good potential repeat customer.

Don't expect "quality predictable" insurance coverage from companies that do not specialize in insuring boats that go offshore. Yes you may be able to get boat insurance from the same company you get home and car insurance from, or from companies that mostly insure small powerboats, and it will probably be low cost, even 25% to 50% less, but you will probably be unable to get coverage for the race. If they do say they will cover the race, you must GET IT IN WRITING. If you go offshore insured through a generic high volume boat policy, you are gambling. They may be perfectly good and high quality in-shore insurers, but are not well suited for offshore. Some people are comfortable making this risk/cost tradeoff - and some are not.

Brokers may vary, but the quality offshore yacht carriers do not. A few "grade A" carriers include insurance companies like Zurich, Markel, Travelers, and brokers like Marsh and Lloyds (and I am sure there are more). These offshore carriers ask hard detailed questions like your sailing experience, boat ownership history and claim history. They want to know exactly where you will be sailing and when. They will want resumes of the sailing experience of each crew member. They will also probably want a survey (out of the water !) done within the past year. If the insurer is not asking these questions, they may be a perfectly good in-shore insurer, but they probably don't understand offshore boating which can result in problems should you have a claim.

What about those "exclusions" like rig and sail coverage? A knowledgeable offshore broker, with enough financial incentive (i.e. your money), can provide you many options including significant coverage that less offshore boat knowledgeable insurers may have turned you down for. But, it will cost you. So find a quality broker and start talking (of course you really need to have already be working with the broker for a year or two before having this race specific conversation… which means you will need to do a great job selling them on your potential to be a good long term customer). That said it is unlikely you will get coverage of the sails and rig, certainly not spinnakers, while racing.

How much is it going to cost me? For a typical 40 foot racer/cruiser, you may have to pay an offshore yacht specific broker 25%-50% more than the volume boat insurers offer. Then, for the race, you may have to pay an additional $250 for the rider to cover the three or so months you may be offshore racing and another $250 if you sail home. And if you want reduced exclusions, it'll cost more yet. Be sure to ask them how/if exclusions vary between the race over and the delivery trip home. You may be able to cover sails and rig for the delivery home, but not the race. Remember that sailing to Hawaii, and returning home, is more miles then most boats go in 5+ years and will probably include quite a few miles in the frequently adverse offshore weather conditions of the west coast of the US. A lot more risk then a normal year when your boat spends most of its time at the dock. Don't be surprised to hear you'll need to buy a year’s insurance coverage in order to get the rider that covers the race.

Why can I not get insurance? If you are talking to a quality insurance broker and are willing to pay for quality coverage, there are some situations where you still may have difficulty getting insurance coverage. Examples of difficult to insure people and boats are those going single-handed or double-handed in a small or high performance boat, those with a history of claims, and those with little offshore sailing experience (I think you get the picture). In these cases you'll need to do a bit more work finding the right insurer, and depending on your budget, you may have to settle for either liability only or no insurance.

Who are quality insurance brokers? Making recommendations is tricky stuff as we all have different expectations of what is good and what is not. In addition, there is a lot of room for honest misunderstanding when/if you have a claim so you can find positive and negative feedback on virtually all insurance brokers and carriers. That said, we have heard from several entrants that have sailed to Hawaii several times about insurance brokers they are happy with (at least for now). These include the following companies.

Note "Limitations" are based on our limited understanding, may not be very accurate, and are surely incomplete but we are providing anyway as it may help save you from making a few unnecessary telephone calls.

Bay Risk Insurance Brokers

(800) 647-2025 ask for Marvin

email marvin@bayrisk.com)
Office in Alameda, California

Blue Water Insurance http://bluewaterins.com
(888) 866-7277
Offices in San Diego and Florida
Limitations? Over 37 feet, no single handers, no carbon fiber masts

Jack Martin Insurance http://www.jackmartin.com
(800) 421-8818 (Morgan Wells or Damon)
morgan@jackmartin.com
Limitations? No single or double handers

Mariners General Insurance

Craig Chamberlain
204 Riverside Avenue
Newport Beach, CA 92663
cchamberlain@marinersinsurance.com
Phone (949) 642-5174 / Fax (949) 642-0252
Limitations? No single handers

Ocean Marine Underwriters

Pat Kudlich, President

735 Bishop St, Ste 327

Honolulu, HI 96813

omia@hawaii.rr.com

Phone 808 532-1000 / Fax 808 532-1009

NorthStar Risk Management
Pat Lowther
1777 Botelho Drive, Suite 360
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
plowther@northstar-ins.com
direct: 925-975-4686
mobile: 925-407-5507
fax: 925-472-5237

Limitations? No boats over 25 years old. Ocean racers considered on a case by case basis

To be clear, the Pacific Cup Yacht Club and sponsors of the Pacific Cup make no endorsements or recommendations for these companies.

Bob Gray has been doing a little research on the insurance issue and has located two brokers who believe they generally can place insurance for Pacific Cup racers. They are:

1) Gowrie Barden & Brett Ins brokers - Connecticut; 860 399-5945;
Contact is Rod Clingman
Marine Department
Gowrie Barden & Brett Insurance ;
(860) 399-3677 Direct; (860) 399-3620 Fax
800 262 8911ext 177

2) Morgan Wells - Jack Martin & Associates
326 First St. #27
Annapolis, MD, 21403 USA
410-626-1000 ext. 5723; FAX: 410-626-9966
800-421-8818 ext. 5723

Racers applying for insurance should each prepare a packet for the broker to take to the underwriters, including a crew list (with resumes), vessel descriptions including meeting the Special Regulations (the underwriters are familiar with the term ORC and it wouldn’t hurt to identify boat as meeting ORC regulations) and show the Notice of Race and Inspector Checklist showing basic criteria they need to meet to sail the race.

Max Ebb on Squalls

Squall Strategy

Re-printed with permission from Latitude 38, July 1994.
Copyright Max Ebb Publications and Latitude 38, 1994

 

"What's the event tonight?" I asked the bartender. "I had to
drive all the way back to the second overflow parking lot to find
a space!"
But the bar was almost empty. Just a few people I didn't
recognize buying drinks, and a member serving.
"It's the weather briefing for the race to Hawaii. Standing
room only in the dining room."
"Ah, that explains it. Big entry list this year. Who's
speaking?"
The speaker was a well-known name in Transpac navigation,
all the more reason for the full house. So I ordered a gin and
tonic for myself and wandered towards the dining room, to see if
I could squeeze in for the rest of the presentation.

"If you're on a sled," advised the speaker, "you can
actually sail as fast as the squall is moving. VMG downwind will
be about half the windspeed, with no upper limit."
He was referring to a table of numbers projected on the
screen, showing the tacking angle, apparent wind angle, boat
speed, and VMG for a large ultralight.
"The squall typically moves at 15 knots, but the wind in the
squall is around 30. That's enough to get you down the wind fast
enough to stay in the area of strongest wind, so you can actually
jibe back and forth across the face of the squall many times.
Remember, the object is to stay *in* the squall"
This generated a chuckle from the audience. Having seen the
entry list, I knew that most of them were cruisers before racers.
The next chart flashed up on the screen, the numbers for a much
older and heavier 40-footer.
"But in a slower or smaller boat, one pass is usually all
you'll get. How you exit the squall is critical."
This was interesting. I walked along the back perimeter of
the darkened room, navigating between the packed bodies and re-
arranged tables and chairs. No seats, but it seemed like it might
be worth standing and listening for a while.
"On a slow boat - and that means anything but a sled - you
should generally `exit stage left' when the squall ends. That is,
leave to the left, on port pole. Never get caught right on the
ceterline of the squall's track behind it, or to the right. And
especially not just before dawn! On the average, the squall wind
will be a starboard-tack lift, for reasons that I explained
earlier. So you'll probably have jibed onto port pole anyway.
Once you leave the squall, you want to get away from the light
air behind the squall as quickly as you can."
It sounded like I had missed something important.
"Rule of thumb:" summarized the speaker - "Once you're out
of the squall itself, if you want the wind conditions to change
get on port tack. If you want them to stay the same, sail on
starboard. This is also the rule of thumb for increasing your
chances of staying under the 'wind stripes' that you'll see as
lines of clouds during the day."
"Why?" I thought to myself. I had definitely missed
something important, walking in in the middle of the talk.
"Another rule of thumb." he continued. "If you're in a sled
and are trying to jibe back into the squall, jibe as soon as you
get headed. It sounds crazy to jibe on a header - but I've
repeatedly observed the wind direction aimed inward towards the
track of the squall. The header is often the first indicator that
you're getting to one side of the strongest wind, and it's time
to go back."
Just about everyone in the room was taking notes furiously,
copying down a diagram showing wind speed and direction around a
squall cloud.
"I don't know why this happens," he confessed. "You'd think
that the strongest wind would just radiate outward from the
center of the squall. But for some reason, the wind is directed
inward like this."
He emphasized the wind arrows on his diagram, drawn in a
"toed-in" orientation on the left and right front corners of the
squall.

As my eyes became adjusted to the low light level, I could
pick out many of my sailing friends in the crowd. There were a
few of my competitors from the YRA fleet, and the handful of
yacht club members that had berths on the Hawaii race were
scattered in the crowd. There was my sailmaker, over by the wall
on the right. And even naval architecture student Lee Helm, who
sometimes can be persuaded to crew for me, was over on the left
side of the room taking notes along with all the others.
"Maybe you can explain this phenomenon," the speaker asked
the sailmaker.
All eyes were on the sailmaker, himself a veteran of many
successful races to Hawaii. Lee noticed me standing along the
back of the room, and she waved acknowledgment when we made eye
contact.
"Oh no," answered the sailmaker. "I know enough to not guess
at questions like this, especially in this crowd!"
"Anyone else?"
Now the room was silent, and I saw the sailmaker looking at
Lee. I looked at Lee to see if she would respond. She looked back
at the speaker. The speaker looked back at Lee. I looked at the
sailmaker again. He shrugged. Lee shrugged. The speaker shrugged.
And for good measure, I shrugged.
"Let's take a 10-minute intermission," announced the
speaker. "After that we'll cover wind stripes, effects of
tropical storms, and best approaches to the finish."

The house lights went on, and a large number of people made for
the bar. I made my way over Lee Helm's table, borrowing a
temporarily vacant chair.
"I'm surprised you didn't offer an explanation for that wind
shift question," I said as I sat down.
"Like, I'm just auditing this class," she joked. "Collecting
those `rules of thumb.'"
"Do you have a spot on the race this year?"
"I wish. But like, I really have to finish my thesis this
summer. So I'm on the beach again. I mean, I'll be up for it next
year, though. Especially if you know someone doing the race to
Tahiti..."
"I'll be on the lookout for a berth for you, Lee. But I
still can't believe you don't have an explanation for that wind
shift."
"For sure, there are ways to explain it. The main thing is
to think of systems of convection cells, instead of just a single
source of wind from an isolated downrush column. When one
convective cell is collapsing, it's almost certainly triggering
new ones ahead of it. So a squall system often resembles a kind
of dipole, a source-sink pair with the strongest wind right
between he two."
"Ah ha! Of course!" exclaimed a racer who was sitting at the
same table, until now absorbed in studying the notes from the
previous part of the lecture. "If you simperimpose a dipole flow
field on the surface wind - taking into account the veered upper
flow - you get exactly the wind shown on that last diagram!"
"Wait, wait, back up," I said. "What on earth are you
talking about?"
"Okay, Max," said Lee patiently. "I'll try to explain this
for the differently clued."
She turned over the page on her yellow note pad, and drew a
graph showing temperature versus altitude.
"The new word you need to know is *lapse rate*. This is the
observed vertical temperature gradien in a column of air, and
it's typically about 3.5 degrees Fahrenheit per thousand feet of
altitude. It's like if you sent a thermometer up in a balloon,
and measured temperature with respect to altitude as the balloon
went up, you like get this line."
"Okay, I'm with you."
"Cool. Now, there are two more lapse rates to deal with, the
*dry adiabatic lapse rate* and the *wet adiabatic lapse rate.*
These refer to the rate at which an imaginary piece of air would
change temperature if it's moved up or down without any heat
being allowed to flow in or out - hence `adiabatic.' A typical
value for dry adiabatic lapse rate is like 5.4 degrees per
thousand feet. So you start with a container of air, move it up a
thousand, let the container expand to match the reduced pressure,
the temperature will be drop by 5.4 degrees. That's for dry air -
if the humidity in the air is 100% when you start, then some of
the water vapor will be forced to condense, because at the lower
pressure the air has less capability to hold water vapor. This
involves a change of state for the water vapor - from gas to
liquid - and the heat of vaporization is released into the air
when the water condenses. This keeps the air warmer, so the wet
adiabatic lapse rate is less than he dry rate - typically 3.2
degrees per thousand feet."
She drew two more lines on her graph, representing the two
additional rates of cooling.
"Now, the good stuff. Suppose it's a typical day, and the
actual measured lapse rate is the average 3.5. If the surface
temperature is 75 degrees, what would happen if you took some air
from near the surface and raised it a thousand feet?"
"Dry air or wet air?" I asked.
"Good question! Let's say dry, for now."
"Okay, you said the dry rate was 5.4 degrees per thousand
feet, so it cools 5.4 degrees, and end up at just under 70, at -
let's see - 69.6 degrees."
What's the temperature of the surronding air at that
height?"
"I get it," I said. "The surrounding air is 3.5 degrees
cooler, according to the lapse rate curve, so the surrounding air
is at 71.5 degrees. The air that we lifted up is now cooler than
the surrounding air, so it would sink back down."
"Very good! We have stable air. No convection cells here.
You remember from the last time we went through this, huh?"
"Okay, but what does this have to do with squalls?"
"Hang on. What if you have air that's fully saturated with
water, and raise it a thousand feet?"
"Use the wet lapse rate," prompted the other racer at the
table, when I hesitated."
"Thanks," I said as I did some more arithmetic in may head.
"Now the air only drops in temperature by 3.2 degrees, to 71.8."
"And?" asked Lee.
"Compare with ambient," suggested the racer.
"Oh, I see. It's a little warmer than the air around it this
time, so it would rise up."
"So?"
"So, I guess it would keep rising."
"Which means the air is unstable. That's why cumulus clouds
billow up - the moist air keeps rising, water vapor adding heat
to the rising column of air. Whenever the lapse rate - what you
measured with the balloon - is steeper than the adiabatic rate -
wet or dry, as appropriate for the altitude and the amount of
moisture - the air will be unstable. Push some air up, and like,
it keeps going up. Push it down, and it keeps sinking."
"Last time we discussed this you mentioned the lava lamp." I
noted.
"Right. If heating near the ground causes the measured lapse
rate to be steeper than the dry adiabatic lapse rate," added the
other racer at the table, "even dry air will be unstable, and
boil up in a column of rising air, or a thermal. I know all about
this stuff because I fly gliders. When the air reaches `cloud
base,' pressure drops to where the water vapor saturates the air,
then the wet lapse rate takes over, and it becomes even more
unstable. The thermal in the cloud is generally stronger, and
more turbulent."
"Okay, back to squalls," said lee. "The ocean surface is
heated slightly by the sun during the day, but it doesn't change
temperature nearly as fast or as much as the air. At night the
upper air cools, but the air near the surface stays warm. The
actual lapse rate becomes very steep - relatively warm at the
surface, much cooler a little way up - so the air is unstable,
even the unsaturated `dry' air right at the surface is unstable.
Rising columns of air form. But the air doesn't have to rise very
far before it becomes saturated, causing it to cool at the
slower, wet adiabatic rate, which makes it even more buoyant
relative to the surrounding air, which makes it rise even faster,
which makes it even more buoyant still. You have a humongous
towering cumulus cloud, transfering hot air up from the surface,
trying hard to bring the temperature gradient in the atmosphere
back to normal."
Lee was gesturing with her hands as she spoke, trying to
depict clouds rising to the stratosphere.
"And it works the other way too." she continued. "When the
moist air at the top of these clouds cools down, it's ready to
start falling. Extra liquid water in the form of cloud droplets
and rain are re-evaporated back into the descending air,
effectively refrigerating it as the pressure increases. The
`downrush column' picks up speed, and as long as the lapse rate
of the surrounding air is steeper than the wet adiabatic lapse
rate, the downdraft air just keeps sinking faster as it falls
through the cloud. If there's rain falling out of the cloud, then
the wet rate applies right down to the surface, because there's
still water evaporating into the air."
"That checks with my experience," I noted. "Cold rain in
squalls."
"That's the standard description of how an isolated squall
works," said Lee.
"Right," added the racer. "They build all evening, and start
collapsing later at night or in the early morning hours. The
biggest squalls of all are the ones that hit just before dawn."
"So you'd think," Lee continued, "that the wind field around
a squall would be a strong outward flow of cold air, from the
downrush column hitting the surface and spreading out in all
directions. I mean, you have to add to that wind pattern the
existing trade wind field, so the two winds reinforce each other
in front of the squall, and cancel out behind it leaving you
becalmed. You also have to add the wind component from the motion
of the squall cell itself, which will be deflected to the right
relative to the surface wind. That's because the upper air
follows the isobars, but down low the wind is slowed by surface
friction and tends to be distorted along the pressure gradient,
away from the center of the high."
"That explains the usual starboard-tack lift in a squall,"
said the racer. "At least it's a starboard tack lift slightly
more than 50% of the time."
"I'm not sure I got that last part," I allowed, "but
everything else agrees with what the books say. The squall
behaves like a strong downrush of air, fanning out from a point
right under the clouds, adding to the average wind in front and
subtracting from the wind in back."
"Except when it doesn't," said the racer/pilot. "The shift
is to the right most of the time, but how do you explain the
times when it shifts the other way? And how do you explain those
toed-in wind arrows on that diagram?"

"There's a few more things going on," said Lee. "First off,
you really don't know where the convection cell is in its cycle
of developing and collapsing. That affects wind speed and
rainfall. But more important, squalls hardly ever exist as
isolated cells. The night air is unstable, and when the downrush
air turns horizontal and flows out in front of the squall, it
forms a cold wedge, like a miniature cold front, that lifts a lot
more warm air up from the surface. This sets off a new convection
cell of rising air immediately in front of the squall."
"So the air from the downrush gets sucked right back up into
the new thermal?" I said, as the idea finally sunk home. "Now I
see why the wind direction turns inward!"
"Not exactly. I don't think the downrush air is going to
warm up quickly enough to power a strong upward convection. So
it's not a true dipole flow field, in that sense. But I think
there's converging flow into the new cell right above the
downrush air, and this tends to deepen the layer of cold air,
making it converge into a narrower band of wind like the diagram
shows."
"Interesting theory," said the other racer. "It suggests
that the strongest squalls would be double cells like that, to
get the effects of downflow and upflow combined."
"Does it explain the old rhyme about wind and rain?" I
asked.
"What's that, Max?"
I recited a rhyme I remembered from an obscure book about
nautical folklore:

"First the rain and then the wind,
Topsail sheets and halyards mind.
First the wind and then the rain,
Hoist your topsails up again.

"Owe! That's a rhyme?" Lee scoffed. "It uses `wind' and
`mind,' then `rain' and `again.' I mean, call the rhyme police!"
"It must be very old," noted the other racer. "Those words
might have sounded okay as rhymes a thousand or more years ago."
"But the amazing thing is," I said, "it seems to be true!"
The strongest squall winds come right after the rain. According
to the usual description of a squall, it always seemed to me that
the wind should hit first."
"It checks with my dipole model," said Lee, "despite the
dorky rhymes. Like, you'd expect to find rain under the new,
strongly driven convection cell in front of the main squall
cloud. Then the strongest wind would follow the rain. But if the
rain comes after the wind, then the squall is already over and
you're in for a period of calm in the squall's wake."

"So how can we use all this to advantage during the race?"
we asked.
"By understanding that some clouds are going up, and some
are going down. Some people like to think of cumulus clouds as
pistons - when one collapses in a squall, it pushes another one
up. Then there's the gravity wave theory. Researchers have
actually identified big atmospheric waves, like water waves,
causing new convections cells to appear near existing cells. So
it gets pretty gnarly."

Meanwhile the room was filling up again, but fortunately
whoever had a prior claim to my chair had found a better view
from another part of the room. Lee flipped her pad to another new
sheet of paper as the lights dimmed.
"Is any of this actually going to help us get to Hawaii?"
the racer asked again.
"For sure," said Lee. "Just use all the rules of thumb!"


max ebb




RULES OF THUMB FOR SQUALL TACTICS:

1) "Incoming lane" for squall: squall should be just abaft the
beam on starboard tack.

2) Jibe on headers to stay in the squall (sled only).

3) Always exit stage left.

4) Don't be anywhere near the last squall just before dawn. Wind
dissipates at first light.

5) Best lure: blue & white feathers with silver head.

Spinnakers by Kame Richards

TIPS AND TRICKS FOR SPINNAKER HANDLING
by Kame Richards

[The following is an article which I wrote for the RACE GUIDE for the 1998 WEST MARINE PACIFIC CUP.]

OVERVIEW

The following is a list of suggestions on how to handle a spinnaker in the West Marine Pacific Cup race to Kaneohe. Keep in mind that spinnakers are fairly large sails, and are quite capable of dragging a sailboat a long distance, whether the boat is right side up or sideways!

One of the things I admire most about the Pacific Cup Yacht Club is that they make a serious effort to help you learn how to race your boat better.

You are about to embark on a 2200-mile long intensive sailing lesson (not to say immersion). It would be unfortunate to sail that far and not substantially improve your sailing skills.

SPINNAKER SETS

• First of all, know all the halyards are straight and clean before your first set the spinnaker. If it is dark, use a bright flashlight to check things out at the masthead. (This should be done every morning and afternoon as a matter of course.)
• If you will be doing spinnaker peels (see below), anticipate the first spinnaker change so the halyards will still be clear after one spinnaker change.
• On a race like Pacific Cup, I prefer double sheets and guys, even on fairly small boats. This means there is a sheet and a guy on each clew ring in the spinnaker. I also prefer independent shackles (or knots) to attach each of the lines to the clew ring, with the sheet fastened above the guy. This makes it twice as hard to flog off both lines. The sheet needs to be over the guy to make dip pole gybing run smoother. I also prefer knots in the end of the spinnaker gear, but the gear must be long enough for the clew of the sail to wave like a flag in front of the boat. This means the sheet is two times the length of the boat. The length of the guy depends on where you lead your guy, and whether or not you use a turning block. I know the books tell you to never EVER put knots in your spinnaker gear, but it is awfully hard to take the sail down if all the gear has some how been allowed to run free, and now the spinnaker, AND all the sheets and guys are streaming down wind from the masthead!
• It's okay to set the spinnaker right from the bow pulpit. This means there will be less afterguy to bring in. The halyard will also go up faster because it will not be sliding up the outside surface of the genoa.
• If you are using a spinnaker sock, it seems best to connect the halyard to the top of the sock, pull the halyard up, straighten out any twists in the sock, connect the sheets and guys, then haul the sock up to fill the sail.
• In the event you are using a roller furling jib, I think it would be best if you drop the sail onto the deck after you set the spinnaker rather than furl up the jib. Reason 1: The roller jib is quite heavy, and it is not wise to carry that much weight (a) that high in the air and (b) that close to the bow. Reason 2: If you get a spinnaker wrap, it will be much harder to undo because the spinnaker cloth will not slip off the UV cover material on the jib as easily as it slides off the aluminum foil of the furler.

SPINNAKER GYBES

• On the boats I've gone on in the past, we have found it best to assign people to the individual jobs for gybing, independent of being on or off watch. This means the same person will be in the bow, on the topping lift, in the cockpit, etc. You may want to appoint two drivers so the one who was completely asleep when the gybe was called doesn't have to try to steer while half asleep!
• If it is fairly windy, two-pole gybes are something to consider. In this case you rig a second pole, including a topping lift and a foreguy. Connect the new pole to the lazy guy, top it up, square it back and trim in the new foreguy. Now the spinnaker is held solidly from three corners and consequently will hold very still during the gybe. Now gybe the mainsail over to the other side, and take down the old pole. The problems / dangers of this style of gybe is that if you round the boat up or down, you will stick a pole in the water, and probably break the pole, or worse, the mast. You also must be careful setting the new pole and dropping the old pole, because it is momentarily pointing directly into the spinnaker, and if they touch, the chances of tearing the sail are very high. Another problem is to be sure that the two inboard ends of the poles don't bind on each other while you are working with them.
• If it is very windy and you feel you can't complete a gybe without breaking something, the "chicken gybe" is a safe way to get the job done. In this case you drop the spinnaker, and then actually TACK the boat, and then re-set the spinnaker. In my experience, if it is so windy that you elect to chicken gybe, you will be smart enough to not try to reset the spinnaker immediately.
• If you are using a sock, consider pulling the sock down to contain the spinnaker and lowering the pole onto the foredeck. Then gybe the mainsail, connect the spinnaker pole onto the new afterguy, and reset the spinnaker.

SPINNAKER CHANGES

• The most conservative spinnaker change is the bald headed change. Get the new spinnaker up on deck, with the bag fastened down and the corners organized. Strip off the old spinnaker (see "spinnaker drops" below), put the same gear on the new sail, and send it right back up again. This provides an opportunity to change spinnaker halyards.
• Spinnaker peels take a little more time and a little more orchestration, but when properly done, the boat is never without a spinnaker that is full and pulling. In the peel, you rig the new spinnaker with a new (clear) halyard, a sheet, and a "tag line" which will temporarily hold the tack of the sail. (Rig the tag line as follows: a snap shackle at the free end, clove-hitched to the headstay at shoulder height with the snap shackle hanging two feet down, with the other end securely fastened to the bow cleat to prevent the whole arrangement from sliding up the forestay.) The new spinnaker is hoisted and trimmed. When it is drawing, the old spinnaker is tripped from its afterguy. It will rotate off downwind and act like a flag flying from the halyard and the sheet, where it will hang out for a while. Now ease the spinnaker pole toppinglift and afterguy so the guy can be connected to the spinnaker tack. Take the slack out of the afterguy, and trip free the tack of the sail from the tag line. Now square the pole back to its proper sailing position. Not until the new spinnaker is fully trimmed is the old sail dropped. Finally do what needs to be done to straighten out the spinnaker halyards. Occasionally this requires sending someone to the top of the mast.

SPINNAKER DROPS

• You must be sure the halyard will come down uninterrupted, so flake out the halyard tail, or drop the tail over the side so you know it is straight (literally!), and can't get tangled up. While you are at it, be sure the afterguy and lazy sheet are organized too.
• In order for the crew to pull in the spinnaker, it must completely collapse. This should happen before the halyard is let down.
  • One way is to ease the afterguy forward until the pole is near the forestay, then let the afterguy run completely free. "Free" means taking all the wraps off the winch and letting the line go.
  • Another way is to trim in the sheet, ease the pole forward, and bear the boat off. This will move the spinnaker into the dirty air behind the mainsail, which will cause it to collapse. Now run a whole bunch of the halyard, watching the crew gathering the spinnaker to be sure the sail doesn't fall into the water. There are two potential problems to this style of drop: (1) If you let the halyard off as soon as the sail collapses you run the risk of the spinnaker blowing through the foretriangle the wrong way and causing a spinnaker wrap. (2) As the sheet is trimmed in, the spinnaker is prone to round the boat up. It is essential to bear the boat off to counteract the round-up problem and cause the spinnaker to collapse.
  • Still another way is to lower the topping lift and ease the pole forward so the foredeck person can reach up and trip the guy off the sail by pulling the release on the snapshackle. I would say this is my LEAST favorite method. The spinnaker pole tends to thrash around after the sail has been tripped, and I don't want the foredeck (or anyone else, for that matter!) hurt.

SPINNAKER TRIM

The spinnaker is properly trimmed if the wind is flowing just tangent to the leading edge of the sail. Don't think of the spinnaker as a bucket which "catches the wind." Just like a main or a jib, it is a foil which bends the wind, and just like a main or a jib, the spinnaker pulls the hardest when the wind is traveling smoothly across the spinnaker's OUTSIDE surface.

• The sheet side:
  • The luff should fold in every once in a while. This is the best way to tell that the wind is flowing tangent to the spinnakers' leading edge.
  • The boat is SLOW if the luff doesn't fold in every once in awhile.
  • Anticipate acceleration: When the boat speeds up, as in surging down a wave, the apparent wind will increase and swing forward. Start trimming in the spinnaker sheet as soon as the boat starts to speed up. Be sure you ease it back out as the boat slows back to its original speed.
  • The driver should not steer to correct for these small spinnaker luffs. If you are the trimmer, be sure you talk with the driver so you understand the drivers anxieties about how the spinnaker is being trimmed
• The guy side
  • A good basic rule is to keep the pole perpendicular to the apparent wind angle, which is indicated by the wind indicator at the top of the mast.
  • The pole height is determined by where (in terms of up and down the leading edge) the spinnaker first folds when it luffs. The pole is too low if the luff occurs high up near the head. If the sail is luffing relatively low, like half way down or more, the pole is to high.
  • Be sure that you trim the sheet much more often than the pole. Although you can fix a collapse by easing the pole, this should be the last resort. The boat seems to lose its punch when the leading edge of the spinnaker is being constantly moved backwards and forwards.
• Halyard
  • It is best to keep the spinnaker halyard all the way up. It keeps the sail from moving around too much.

SPINNAKER STEERING

Fundamental to steering is realizing that every time you move the rudder, the boat slows down a little bit. So the more you can get the boat to go the way you want it to without using the rudder the better.

• Anticipate steering: If the boat is straight up and down, it will tend to go straight ahead. When the boat heels left, it will turn right. When it heels right, it will turn left. As soon as the boat changes angle of heel, start putting in the steering correction. The sooner you put in the correction, the smaller the correction can be, thereby slowing you down less.
• Anticipate acceleration: When the boat speeds up, as in surging down a wave, the apparent wind will increase and swing forward. Bearing off (turning slightly downwind) will reduce the chance of a spinnaker collapse...especially if you see that the spinnaker sheet is not being trimmed in at this moment.
• As a driver, you need to keep your trimmer informed of how you feel. If you want the sheet trimmed a little softer on average, just ask for it. This usually starts the kind of conversation that gets your boat sailing faster.

CHAFE WATCH

In racing to Kaneohe, chances are you will sail something like 1500 miles with a spinnaker up. That is a lot of miles, and it will be a lot of hours too! It will be the equivalent of many years of racing if you just did buoy racing or the local ocean racing series. One of the ways this will manifest itself in chafe on the lines. You need to set up a 'Chafe Patrol' once or twice a day . The common places to look are:

• Spinnaker sheet on the winch -- A common problem, especially with brand new winch drums, also a problem with polypropylene covered sheets. This usually is no surprise. You will see a lot of fuzz lying around the winch base!
• Spinnaker sheet on the bottom edge of the boom -- For this type of sailing, the sheet should not be allowed to rub on the boom. Even on a smooth boom, you can chafe through the outside sheath of a sheet in one night. Rig a spinnaker twing or snatch block in such a way as to prevent the sheet from rubbing on the boom.
• Spinnaker halyard -- Even though this might be the place you would least like to go, someone should get up to the top of the rig once a day to be sure everything is hanging together. If you have been using one halyard for a few days, you can change spinnaker halyards by sending up the inspector on a jib halyard, have them attach the other spinnaker halyard to the head of the sail, take up the load on the new halyard, ease off the old, and bring the old halyard back down to the deck...being sure everything is clean of course! Keep in mind a broken spinnaker halyard usually lands the spinnaker in the water straight in front of the boat. After you sail over it, it doesn't quite seem to work the same, even if you get all the pieces back!
• Afterguy in the jaw of the pole -- Another hard place to get to, and a hard place to see, but it must be checked. One opportunity is during spinnaker changes when the afterguy is not connected to anything.

CHAFE SOLUTIONS The first solution is to not let the chafe happen in the first place. But if it has already occurred, here are some fixes:

• Spinnaker sheet on the winch -- Spinnaker sheet on the bottom edge of the boom -- usually reversing the sheet will move the chafed portion of the sheet out of the actively used area of the sheet.
• Halyard at masthead -- Reversing the halyard, or trimming off the top foot or two, will give you a "new" piece of line to work with.
• Rigging an external halyard, which touches nothing except sheaves and a winch will chafe the least.
• Afterguy in the jaw of the pole -- Again either shortening or reversing the guy will solve the problem. Or wrap the last 4" to 6" in leather.

SPINNAKER REPAIRS

• You will need to have a spinnaker repair kit, which is a sub-section of the sail repair kit. The spinnaker repair section needs to contain the following:
  • one quart of acetone or denatured alcohol
  • masking tape / duct tape / vinyl tape and push-pins (to hold the torn sail in place while you apply the adhesive material)
  • "Sticky back" Dacron tape, about the luff length of your spinnaker, 2 or 3 inches wide depending on the size of your boat. (This is NOT the same as "spinnaker repair tape." The dacron sticky back is both stronger as a material, and uses a much more tenacious adhesive than the ripstop nylon repair tape.)
  • Stainless Steel round rings (in the event a head or clew ring pulls out)
  • 1 inch tubular webbing, 4 to 6 pieces one to two feet long depending on the size of your boat. (to anchor the round ring to the remaining reinforcement in the head or tack)
  • hand sewing kit (needed in the event the loads in the repaired area are too great for adhesives alone)
• Where is the hole? If the hole is relatively close to a corner (approximately 10% to 15% of the luff length), it is more important than a hole that is further away from the corner.
• What kind of a hole do you have? If the hole is about 1/4 inch in length you can pretty much ignore it. Holes of about 4 inches in length would cause me enough anxiety that I would want to get the sail down and fixed reasonably soon. With bigger holes, it becomes important to try to get the sail down quickly without making the hole worse.
• Repair goals:
  • The repair will be accomplished by applying the dacron "sticky back" tape across the tear. The adhesives will not stick unless the sail is clean and dry. Use the acetone or denatured alcohol on paper towels for cleaning and drying.
  • For a working surface use an upside down floorboard, because the owner will probably let you stick pushpins into it, but not likely into the table or the deck. If you use pushpins for holding the repair, don't pull the cloth so tight that the pushpins tear the spinnaker anew!
  • We want the repair area to be locally flat, just like before the sail was torn, so do not overlap the cloth. We want a butt joint, so the yarns on one side of the tear just touch the yarns on the other side of the tear. It is also desirable for the individual yarns to line up across the repair. If they are shifted left or right, we will end up with a pucker at one end of the repair, and the sticky back dacron tape will tend to come off the sail at the wrinkle.
  • If the hole is longer than two or three feet, place the sticky back on both sides.
• Procedure:
  • Clean and dry the effected area with the acetone.
  • Get the effected area flat.
  • Cut the sticky back to a suitable working length. Longer than three or four feet becomes challenging.
  • Peel back 6 inches of the paper backing at one end of your working piece.
  • Carefully position the sticky-back so (1) the middle of the hole runs down the middle of the sticky back, and (2) so one end of the sticky-back will reach beyond the hole by several inches. This is best done by placing the still paper-back portion onto the hole, getting the alignment correct, and then laying down the exposed adhesive. Now working from the glued end, peel off the backing and rub the sticky-back onto the spinnaker.
  • The adhesive is pressure sensitive, so press hard while you are rubbing the sticky- back down, especially along the outside edges.
  • If the tear is in a high stress area, or large, use sticky-back on both sides of the spinnaker. You may also need to stitch through the sticky-back to reduce slippage.

After 2200 miles of sailing, you will have had a great opportunity to work on many of the ideas covered here. I hope this article helps you anticipate problems so they can be avoided and, most of all, I hope it helps you get to Kaneohe sooner!

For further reading...

If you are using a spinnaker sock, there is a great article on using them on our web site, www.pineapplesails.com. Point your browser at www.pineapplesails.com/downwind.htm. There is also an article on dip pole gybes, with descriptions of each step and in what order they need to be done at www.pineapplesails.com/dpg_chro.htm.

 

Copyright ©2006-2007 Pineapple Sails
2526 Blanding Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501 USA
(510) 522-2200

PROVISIONING :make it easy, make it healthy, make it good.

By Sylvia Seaberg/The Spinnaker Shop

MOTTO: make it easy, make it healthy, make it good.

GOAL: To discuss a basic approach to provisioning for the race that can apply to a wide variety of boat and
crew capabilities. There are as many ways of coordinating provisioning and meals as there are boats and crew.
This speaker’s experience was moderately rustic with galley gear being one well-insulated cooler and a single
burner gimbaled stove. Nevertheless our boat ate well and never felt wanting. Get together in advance and
discuss what will work for your crew. Style of provisioning will be determined by boat and crew capabilities and
inclinations. A good basic philosophy when planning meals is to think in terms of spending as little time as
possible futzing around in the galley while at the same time having a menu that the crew will look forward to every
day.

I. PLANNING:

BOAT: Assess galley’s capabilities for storing and cooking.

*Refrigeration: what do you have and what do you need? A freezer is not necessary but a cooler is
recommended. A well-insulated icebox of at least 5 cubic feet can be packed with dry ice (recommend at
least 30-50 lbs), frozen water in plastic milk jugs and frozen dinners. This will keep food frozen for maybe a
week and cold to cool for several more days beyond that.

*Water storage: If boat already has on-board storage ensure the tanks/bladders will keep water potable and
are in good working order. Consider back-up water storage in the event of leakage or failure. Arrange for
water purification if warranted. Standard water ratio of Clorox bleach to water is 1 tsp. bleach to 10 gals.
water.

*Cooking: equipment will determine how meals can be prepared, stovetop? Oven? Microwave?

*Storage: determine where food storage will be. Make a rough diagram of where food will be stored, this
will be fine tuned later on but it is a good to have a basic plan. Create more storage if necessary by
installing zippered mesh (or other style) access areas.

*Make a list of what galley needs and a timetable for getting gear purchased and installed.
CREW: Determine crew’s likes and dislikes, food allergies or other potential problem areas, write this info
down and use it when making your meal and shopping lists.
Determine crew capabilities regarding cooking. Discuss in advance the eating, cooking and cleanup
routines. For example, a practical arrangement could be a help-yourself arrangement for breakfast and
lunch with dinner being a prepared meal crew eats together…good for the stomach good for the soul good
for the team.

Consider individualizing plates, bowls, cups, etc. so the same people use the same items each time. This
can be done by labeling items or purchasing different colored items.

FOOD: Based on boat size and rating determine how many meals for number of people for number of days
you will be at sea. Increase meals by at least 50% or other factor with lightweight, rustic food if necessary.
A note about freeze dried food: these foods can be high in sulfates. Be aware that some people can
experience “reactions” when ingesting an excessive amount of sulfates including headaches, dehydration
and flatulation. Freeze dried food has come a long way, however, and is certainly a viable option for
lightweight or backup provisioning.

Consider interest and health aspects when planning meals and menus, e.g. include variety and don’t forget
veggies and fruits (especially dried fruit for good digestion).
Draft a list of breakfast and lunch foods and determine how much you will need.
Draft a list of dinner menus and determine how much you will need.
Draft a list of snack foods.
Draft a list of condiments.
Draft a list of peripherals, e.g. dry ice, soap, towels, etc.
Draft a shopping list; separate it by perishable and non-perishable.
Draft a minimum equipment list: galley strap, stove, tea kettle, hot water dispenser, pot for cooking, utensils
incl. can opener, hot pads and towels, paper towels, cleaning equipment, etc.
Safety considerations: Safety harness or galley belt, fire extinguisher in galley, box of baking soda for flareups
(good for indigestion, too)
Liquids: Race rules require 15-gals/pp. fresh water. Consider mix-your-own electrolyte drinks to add to
water to flavor it (especially if it has been sterilized with bleach) and to keep the crew’s electrolyte levels up.

II. PREPARATION
BOAT: Purchase any gear galley does not already have. Make sure pans fit stove, oven, microwave, etc!!
Plan exactly where food will be. Retrofit or install storage areas if necessary. Ensure you have sufficient
fuel and that all equipment works well. If boat does not have storage for cutlery, knifes, etc. install mesh
bags for storing.
CREW: Ensure the crew knows how to operate every piece of galley equipment.
If crew is preparing some amount of frozen dinners for “leftovers” these should be done at least a week in
advance and frozen well. Amount of these dinners will largely be determined by storage space in the
cooler. If any crew claims they can’t cook introduce them to Trader Joe’s frozen food section.
FOOD: Shopping tips:
*Start shopping early for non-perishables and visit a variety of stores; some places have really cool
convenience foods that you may not normally notice.
*Use your list as a guideline but remain flexible if you become “inspired” while shopping. Think outside the
box.
*Consider convenience, weight and disposal while shopping. For example, if purchasing prepared bottled
items, try to purchase in plastic instead of glass, squeeze top instead of spoon-out, spaghetti sauces and
milk in cans or boxes rather than bottles, etc.
*Think “Green” when purchasing cleaning products, not only good for the environment but accidental residue
on plates not so pukie.
*Purchase a wide variety of snacks, sweet snacks, salty snacks, fresh healthy snacks.
*Purchase perishables as close to departure date as possible.
*If purchasing dry ice reserve in advance and make pick-up or delivery arrangements, confirm details.
Assemble Ziploc “dinner bags” in advance including as much of the entire menu as possible, remove excess
packaging but don’t forget the instructions and possibly ingredient list if crew has food sensitivities. If the
dinner requires accessing another area such as cooler make a note and label refrigerated ingredients.

III. ORGANIZATION
BOAT: Implement your storage plan. Store cooking utensils and condiments close to stove and oven.
Label storage areas with contents. Store snacks in highly accessible area and make sure everyone knows
where it is. Store items in the order you will use them and for easy access. Store non-perishable meals in
appropriate order of usage and label storage area. Finalize menu according to sequence and display it.
Set up hot water dispenser and secure well, the first few days involve heeling and waves, the remaining
days hold the potential for broaching. Store all liquid and bottled water in or down near bilge area whenever
possible, in case of leaking the liquid will go into the bilge and not onto dried goods, clothes or bunks. Pack
cooler/freezer with dry ice, ice and frozen food items in appropriate order.

CREW: Ensure the crew knows where food is stored. Finalize your storage diagram, number and/or label it
with corresponding labeling on the areas themselves and brief crew. Discuss the menu and finalize details
such as thawing of the frozen dinners. Displaying the menu will not only keep the crew informed but will
give them something to look forward to during the day! Ensure the crew knows location of soap and
cleaning utensils.
Be prepared to abandon group meals for the first day or two; crew may not feel well enough to prepare
dinners and instant meals in a cup may have to suffice. Be flexible and play it by ear.

FOOD: Make sure frozen items are wrapped well, especially stuff like bread that can absorb liquid or odors
or stinky things that could leak.
Do include fresh fruits and veggies but choose well and store carefully. For example, cabbage stores much
easier than lettuce, fresh limes are a great condiment and do not need refrigeration, purchase fruit green to
allow for ripening, even pineapples and avocadoes can be brought along with this philosophy as long as you
store them well. Check daily and toss bad fruits/veggies, one bad apple can spoil the whole bunch.
Canned fruits and veggies are good too and some can be as healthy as fresh, e.g. corn, tomatoes, legumes.
When purchasing meats look for vacuum packed meats, dry salamis, summer sausage and canned meats
that require little or no refrigeration.

A meal plan: A number of racers report that in terms of meals the race may be divided into different phases.
Your boat may experience one or all of these phases…

1) The beat – for the first 1-3 days your point of sail may be too uncomfortable for cooking dinner. You
may choose to rely on meals consisting of adding hot water to a freeze dried “cup of something.”
Ensure the crew remains sufficiently hydrated during this phase.

2) The comfort zone and “leftovers” – if your galley has freezing accomodations each crew may choose
the option to prepare dinners in advance, freeze them, and reheat them for dinner. These are great
as long as they can remain frozen or adequately cold for the period of time during which these
dinners will be served.

3) The comfort zone and prepared meals – now it’s time to get into your prepared “dinner bags” or
alternate meals designed to feed you during your planned remaining racing days.

4) The extended holiday – for whatever reason it is taking you longer to reach your destination than you
had anticipated. Luckily you have included lightweight backup meals for this situation and it is time
to get into them.

DISPOSAL: Please don’t throw trash into the ocean. Most trash is illegal and you will incur very bad mojo
that you do not need. Rinse packaging, cans and plastics with seawater, crush them flat and put them in
your well-stored heavy-duty trash bags.

SAMPLE DRAFT SHOPPING LIST:
FIRST DRAFT SHOPPING LIST FOR RED SKY
4 CREW MEMBERS
DIETARY CONCERNS: LACTOSE INTOLERANCE (YOGURT, SOME CHEESE OK)
BEVERAGES:

• coffee 1#
• tea 2 boxes misc/reg and herbal
• rice milk 4 boxes
• juice:
• instant Nestea 2 containers
• Crystal light 3 containers
• instant Gatorade 2 containers
• hanging dispenser for mixed beverages 1
• Emergen-C 1 box
• boxed juices 2-3 packages
• tiny bottles of cognac/armagnac 2-3
• champagne 1 bottle
• water brian
• CONDIMENTS:
• salt and pepper
• herbs/spices assorted small containers
• soy sauce packages
• wasabi 1 tube
• mustard and mayo squeeze bottles
• butter/margarine 1 tub
• limes 1 net bag
• honey small squeeze
• hot sauce (tabasco and habanero) small bottle each
• herdez salsa 3 cans ea red/green
• olive oil small squeeze
• salad dressings 1 asian
• 1 italian
• BREAKFASTS:
• variety of yogurts incl. plain 20 individual
• instant oatmeal 12 individual
• dry cereal 3 boxes
• tupperware dispenser for dry cereal
• fruit (apples, oranges, other)
• LUNCHES:
• tuna sandwiches cans tuna
• egg salad sandwiches eggs boiled in advance
• salami and cheese sandwiches
• PBJ’s peanut butter/jellies
• tostadas shells, chili, cheese, salsa, etc.
• salads (chef’s, pasta, etc.)
• cheese packaged shredded
• individually wrapped
• kippers/salmon/other canned fish 6 cans
• roman meal bread 1 loaf fresh/1 loaf frozen
• english muffins 1 package
• wheat rolls 1 package frozen
• crisp tortillas
• crackers (variety) lots incl pilot crackers
• carrots sticks
• celery sticks
• DINNERS:
• First three dinners: instant in-a-cup
• nile spice brand 12 ea
• noodles 12 ea
• cup-a-soup 12 ea
• knorr soup 8 ea.
• Brian’s dinner
• Tom’s Dinner
• Nathan’s dinner
• Sylvia’s dinner
• Glenn’s dinner even though he’s bailing on the race
• cous-cous dinners 1 good, 2 backup
• pasta dinners 2 good, 2 backup
• rice dinners 1 good, 2 backup
• backup meals 1 week
• Canned fruits and vegies assorted
• for salads, desserts and snacks
• SNACKS:
• trail mixes lots
• dried fruit lots
• snickers/granola bars/cliff bars
• nuts
• chips (pringles)
• cookies
• candy
• candied ginger 1 bag
• chocolate covered espresso beans
• small cans fruit
• jerkies and beef sticks
• OTHER STUFF:
• Baking soda 1 plastic container
• paper towels 1 roll/day
• TP lots
• baby wipes lots
• plates and bowls 1 each
• squeeze bottle and mug 1 each
• cutlery 1 set each
• serrated knife 1
• filet knife 1
• large stirring/serving spoons 1 plain/1 slotted
• tongs 1
• cutting board 1 small plastic
• plastic plates 1 pack
• plastic bowls 1 pack
• plastic cutlery some
• dish liquid and sponges
• large heavy duty trash bags 12
• small trash bags 12
• 1 gal. ziploc bags lots
• whistling tea kettle
• hot water dispenser
• 4 qt. pan with lid
• matches/lighters in waterproof box
• big plastic bowl 1
• can opener
• pot holders 2
• dish towels 2
• coffee press acrylic
• aluminum foil 1 roll
• bucket for seawater dishwashing
• small cooler for lunches and thawing dinners
• dry ice (Nathan) 30 lbs
• hand line and lures

2006 Communications Plan

2006 Pacific Cup Yacht Club
Communication Plan.

October 19, 2005

Revised May 17, 2006

Start Line Procedure

• Starters may check in with Race Committee on VHF 71 prior to their Warning Signal.
  
• The Race Committee will monitor VHF 71 from one hour before the first scheduled start until one hour past the last start for the day, or until all starters have passed under the Golden Gate Bridge.
  
• Racers are strongly advised to monitor VHF 71 while in the vicinity of the starting line and until they have cleared the bridge and, thereafter to monitor VHF 16 at all times.
  

Daily Roll Call Procedure

0900 PDT	Record 0900 Position
0900 PDT	Check-in commences with communication vessel, alphabetic by boat name within division: 1. Double Handed division first 2. Remaining divisions in starting order.
1100 PDT	Check-in period ends.
1100 PDT/0800 HST	Once the Communications Vessel has finished, roll call will be conducted by KYC starting at 1100 PDT (0800 Hawaiian Time) and finishing at 1300 PDT (1000 HST). The fleet will be given ample notification of this change during a previous Roll Call. (SI 3.2)

 

 

Channel Description	Freq kHz	ITU Channel
Primary Race Comms	4146 (400 miles)	451 (4A)
Secondary if primary busy	4417 (400 miles)	453 (4C)
Secondary - long range	8294 (800 miles)	851 (8A)
Secondary - long range	8297 (800 miles)	852 (8B)
Secondary - long range	12353 (1200 miles)	1251 (12A)
Secondary - long range	12356 (1200 miles)	1252 (12B)

Communication Vessels	Call sign	MMSI
Communications Vessel CAYENNE	WCZ6594	369585000 (VHF Only)
To be determined, (emergency use only)
Backup Communications Vessel BEQUIA	WDA6026	366826920

Roll Call Operations

Pacific Cup's roll call is a "controlled net," meaning that the Communications Vessel ("CV") is in charge of the use of the frequency and also that traffic is done somewhat differently than normal two-way communications. Shortly before the roll call, the CV will come on the air and announce the CV's call sign as well as the fact that a controlled net is about to commence.

Roll Call will commence at 0900 PDT, possibly with announcements. We use a simple and highly abbreviated protocol for the roll call. (In emergencies you should use full and proper position reporting).

CV hails: "Blue Duck"
Blue Duck: "Blue Duck at 31 22 by 134 53 (three one, two two by one three four, five three)
CV (confirming position): "Blue Duck, 31 22 by 134 53
Blue Duck: "Roger" (but if incorrect, transmit correction: "Correction! Latitude is 134 degrees 53 minutes.")

Notes:

Emergency and Special Traffic

• In case of emergency, you may interrupt the net by hailing "Break-Break." The CV will suspend all operations for your emergency traffic and hail you with "Go ahead break." Do not use "Break-Break" for non-emergency traffic.
• Special Traffic: If you have a message for the CV or another boat, when you report your position add "and I have traffic for (e.g.) Red Dog." The CV will acknowledge and hail you after the roll call.

Roll Call Details

• Round position to the nearest minute. Give position deliberately and clearly.
• The CV may request a relay if it can't hear clearly. If CV asks for a relay and you can hear both the CV and the other station, then reply with "(Your Name) Relay" and wait to be acknowledged. The CV can't hear you if several boats broadcast at once. Blue Duck should also stand by if it hears a relay request.
• If you can't reach the CV via SSB during the roll call, try using VHF 16.
• During roll call, all vessels must monitor VHF 16 for assistance with possible check-in relays or emergency traffic. Failure to relay is a violation of the Sailing Instructions. It is strongly advised to have VHF 16 on at all times. (See SI 3.2) Cayenne is now equipped with DSC on VHF.
  
• After the roll call on 4A, if there are missed boats, CV will try again on 4146 kHz, (4A), and will attempt periodic hails on (8A) and (12A) until 1030 PDT when the check-in period ends. (See SI 3.2, 3.3).

Finishing or Retired

• Vessels that have completed the 100 mile check-in before 0900 PDT need not participate in the roll call. However, If still on the course you are encouraged to check in, if only to brag, but it is not required.
• Those that abandon the race are strongly encouraged to continue to check in until they reach port. Your friends and fellow racers may worry otherwise (See SI 3.2 and 3.5 paragraph one)
  .

SailMail and Channel 4B

• Racers are asked not to use channel 4B for private calls during roll call as sometimes there is interference with 4A.
• The CV will be using SailMail for transmission of roll call data to race officials and the web page. Except for emergencies do not use SailMail frequencies from 0930 PDT to 1200 PDT. The CV will make a brief announcement on 4A when it has completed its SailMail transmission.

KYC Communication after roll call 1000 to 1100 PDT

KYC will monitor 12353 kHz, (12A), during the early portions (16528 kHz, (16A) alternate) of the race and will then monitor channel 8A, on 8294 kHz after July 9th. This is intended as a status frequency for the Communication Vessel and may be used by competitors to the extent that KYC can be of service. This is not considered an emergency channel or check-in method.

Informal Radio Hour

• 1700 PDT 4146 kHz, (4A), is reserved for an informal discussion period among the fleet. All are encouraged to participate.
  
• The CV may choose to use this period to read back the computed standings and the latest guess as to who is leading in each fleet.
  
• The CV may choose to handle traffic from the racers. Other vessels with E-mail capability can also provide this service at their discretion, however rewarding such efforts with the promise of Mai Tai's at Kaneohe is recommended.
  
• Be advised that discussions about routing and weather on the course may be considered outside assistance and could lead to another vessel filing a protest.
  
• Also be advised that anything discussed during the radio hour may find its way into the awards ceremony, or into the daily reports after the informal radio hour.
  

Finish Line Procedure (See SI 4.5)

• 100 mile check-in to KYC. 4146 kHz Hail "KYC Base"
  
• 25 miles from finish 4146 kHz Hail "KYC Base"
  
• 5 miles from finish VHF 71 Hail "West Marine Pacific Cup Finish"
  
• At the finish VHF 71 Hail "West Marine Pacific Cup Finish"
  
• After the finish VHF 68 Hail "Escort Vessel"
  

Any communication from an official of the finish line committee, including navigational advisories offered in the interest of safety, will not be considered outside assistance for the purpose of rule 60.

Emergency Communications

• The USCG is best equipped to handle a true emergency, contact them on the channels listed below.
  
• The communication vessel can provide some assistance, for example relaying traffic or redirecting a nearby yacht. However the communication vessel is not obligated to monitor except during the roll call period.
  EPIRB: If you trigger an EPIRB do not turn it off until the USCG has been notified. If you trigger an automatic or manual distress signal from your SSB and/or VHF radio, whether in an emergency or accidentally, notify the USCG or have someone relay the situation. In years past accidental transmission without USCG notification has resulted in USCG air assets being readied and/or flying continuously over several days in search of a missing vessel that had turned off an EPIRB/DSC signal without a report.

• Any vessel that is equipped with Satellite telephone equipment and/or Satellite communications equipment should provide the contact information to the Race Committee during the Inspection of the vessel.

Distress Frequencies

The US Coast Guard monitors the following Distress frequencies:

ITU

Freq

Station and Schedule (UTC)

Chan	kHz	NMC/Pt. Reyes	NMO/Hono	NOJ/Kodiak
450	4125	24 HRS	0600-1800	24 HRS
650	6215	24 HRS	24 HRS	24 HRS
850	8291	24 HRS	24 HRS	on request
1250	12290	24 HRS	1800-0600	on request
1650	16420	on request only	on request only	on request only

Notes:

• The above table has changed since the last race. The USCG Calling and Distress Watch Schedule for 2005 is now in effect. All racers should check official USCG web sites for possible changes prior to starting the race.
  
• Particularly good results have been reported using 4125 kHz at night, which is monitored continuously by USCG Kodiak, Alaska, and 8291 during the day by NMC and NMO
  
• These distress channels/frequencies were different in the past. But the latest USCG tables for Calling and Distress Watch Schedule changed them to the above Simplex frequencies to improve response time.
  
• Call "Any US Coast Guard station" three times, say "this is", then say your vessel name three times, say latitude-longitude using degrees, minutes and tenths of a minute, and North/South and East/West appropriately, (to facilitate the use of directional antennas), and then say "over". Pause 3-4 seconds for a reply, then repeat. Continue calling for at least two minutes before trying a different frequency.
  
• Higher frequencies (12xxx/16xxx kHz) work best during the day, 4, 6 or 8 kHz at night.
  
• Always remember to speak slowly and clearly. A quick call may not be heard.
  
• The Pacific Seafarers Net http://www.pacsea.org is exceedingly reliable and helpful. They will respond to emergencies even if you do not have a HAM license. They operate from 0300 to 0425 UTC daily on 14.300 MHz.
  
  

Weather Information frequencies

Description	Rcv Freq kHz USB	Schedule Time is UTC
WWV time standard	5000, 10000, 15000	Continuous
WEFAX Pt Reyes	4346** 8682** 12786** 17151.2** 22527**	Night Continuous* Continuous* Continuous* Day
WEFAX Hawaii	9982.5** 11090** 16135**	0533-1630* Continuous* 1733-0437*

*Note changes to schedule times in accordance with USCG publication
** Note change in frequency in accordance with USCG publication

For access to the full broadcast schedules please go to

http://weather.noaa.gov/fax/ptreyes.shtml for Pt. Reyes and/or,
http://weather.noaa.gov/fax/hawaii.shtml for Hawaii.

These text documents will give you specific transmission times for documents of interest for a safe and fast passage to Hawaii. Highly recommend that you print the latest copies of these documents immediately before the Race.

Appendix for Communications Requirements.

Yachts shall carry a fully charged handheld VHF transceiver designated waterproof by the manufacturer, (unless otherwise modified by the NOR/SI), a permanently installed 25-watt Marine VHF transceiver operable on United States channels and a permanently installed Marine SSB transceiver. The SSB must be equipped and programmed, and the designated operators must have sufficient training to operate on a minimum of the following USB frequencies in kHz:

Use	ITU Channel	Ship Tx	Ship Rx	Mode
Coast Guard Emergency	N/A	2182.0	2182.0	Simplex
USCG Working	N/A	2670.0	2670.0	Simplex
USCG Weather	424	4134.0	4426.0	Duplex
USCG Weather	601	6200.0	6501.0	Duplex
USCG Weather	816	8240.0	8764.0	Duplex
USCG Weather	1205	12242.0	13089.0	Duplex
USCG Weather	1625	16432.0	17314.0	Duplex
Channel 4S (Distress)	450	4125.0	4125.0	Simplex
Channel 6S (Distress)	650	6215.0	6215.0	Simplex
Channel 8S (Distress)	850	8291.0	8291.0	Simplex
Channel 12S (Distress)	1250	12290.0	12290.0	Simplex
Channel 16S (Distress)	1650	16420.0	16420.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 4A	451	4146.0	4146.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 4B	452	4149.0	4149.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 4C	453	4417.0	4417.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 6A	651	6224.0	6224.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 6B	652	6227.0	6227.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 8A	851	8294.0	8294.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 8B	852	8297.0	8297.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 12A	1251	12353.0	12353.0	Simplex
Ship to Ship 12B	1252	12356.0	12356.0	Simplex

Both the VHF and SSB transceivers shall have permanently installed antennas plus provision for emergency antennas. If the VHF and SSB radios are Digital Selective Calling, (DSC), capable you should have the MMSI number programmed in so that your DSC distress capabilities will work. Each vessel must have a valid FCC Ship Station License.

A minimum of a 500 mile communication must be made and logged between April 1, 2006 and the pre-race inspection to verify the satisfactory operation of SSB equipment. Station KLB is located in Seattle WA. Station KNN is located in Marina Del Ray CA. However, as noted below, KNN is only used in certain circumstances therefore vessels in California are encouraged to use KLB for their radio certification and vessels in the Northwest should contact Gordon West as noted in the next paragraph.

Contact Gordon West at (714) 549 5000, Mon-Fri between 0900 and 1600 to arrange radio checks certified for signal strength and clarity. After making arrangements with "Gordo" regarding time and date you will then be able to contact him on Marine SSB channels 4A/8A/12A. Gordo's call sign is WMD. Gordon also provides FCC Ship Station Licensing service..

The following channels for KLB/KNN should be used:

KLB

Channel	SCF	SCF
ITU	Xmit	Rcv
417	4113	4405
805	8207	8731
1209	12254	13101
1624	16249	17311

Note: Frequencies in kHz (ITU 1209 suggested for daytime)
KLB is monitored 24 hours a day.

KNN

Channel	SCF	SCF
ITU	Xmit	Rcv
416	4110	4402
814	8234	8758
1203	12236	13083
1616	16405	17287
2214	22039	22735

Note: KNN is used only when ShipCom LLC is having trouble hearing a vessel
from Seattle or from WLO Mobile AL.

Prior to the start of the race, in accordance with US Prescriptions to the ISAF Special Regulations 2004--2005, at least 30%, (Minimum of two), of the race crew must participate in onboard training in the use of the communications equipment and EPIRBs. Participating crew shall sign an on board Training Certificate* indicating the completion of this training.

Note: In case of conflict between this plan and the Sailing Instructions or Notice of Race, the Sailing Instructions or NOR shall prevail.

Jack McGuire
Chairman, Communications Committee

 

SSB/HF Radio Applications in Modern Sailing Vessels

 

Editor's Note: Most of the inline images were not included in this document to speed up internet load times. Follow the links to see the approriate drawings.]

So you're sailing to Hawaii AND you want to be able to call home while on the way. But most of all you want to be heard if you call for help from the middle of nowhere.

Communications on the open ocean has always presented a problem. The distances are vast and the transmitting platform is small, unstable and designed for a purpose other than being a radio station. If we exclude satellite technology, choices for the average mariner to communicate several thousand miles are about the same as they were 50 years ago. Marine Single Side Band (SSB) radio, also referred to as HF radio, is an "old standby" of voyaging vessels both small and large. It is called HF, or High Frequency, because of the frequency range used, 3 to 30 megahertz (Mhz). Medium Frequency (MF) is below at .3 to 3 Mhz and Very High Frequency (VHF) is above at 30 to 300 Mhz.

Commercially available marine SSB radios are pretty sophisticated machines. They range in price from $1500 to $10,000+ with many different configurations available. As with most electronics, from car stereos to computers, the price of equipment goes up with features and power capabilities. Output power, expressed in watts, of common marine SSB equipment is 150 to 400 watts with some shipboard equipment in the 1000+ watts range. Anything over a 150 watt radio is a big machine and for all but a few yachts too expensive and unnecessary.

Transmitting over the airwaves with a SSB radio is always free as long as you‚re not connected to a commercial service. It is for this reason that SSB is most often used for vessel to vessel communications when the 30 to 40 mile range of a VHF transceiver is insufficient to cover the distance between the two vessels. You can‚t beat it for things like "Hey Jim, how's the weather over there?" Current and upcoming satellite technology is better suited than SSB for making a connection to a landline phone, but the per minute air time charges are real, and so are the monthly service subscription fees (whether you use the phone or not). The average Jim will probably tire of you calling on the sat phone and costing both of you $$$!

With the help of your local marine electronics specialist you have selected a radio system that fits your needs and budget. You will be loaded up with a SSB radio, an automatic antenna tuner, copper strap, wire of different types and connectors. If you opt to do the installation yourself, the radio system will occupy at least one weekend for you and a best friend to install properly. Don't underestimate the difficulty of properly installing a SSB radio. It is not as technically difficult as it is laborious but as with anything on a boat, attention to the details will make the difference in performance.

For this discussion we will assume we are talking about an average 40' fiberglass or wood sloop with an inboard engine and an external keel with keel bolts. Steel and alloy boats will not have the same considerations for a ground system and ketch / yawl rigs have unique antenna problems that need to be addressed individually.

A boat is a difficult radio platform and as most experienced boat owners know, a boat is always a compromise. With respect to a SSB radio on a boat the problem lies in that there is no earth ground plane or "counterpoise" for the antenna system, so one must be built. In a land based installation ground is usually easy. Pounding a 6' copper stake into the earth and / or grabbing onto the copper plumbing in a house can provide a sufficient ground plane. A good ground is vital, it is half of the antenna system and is often referred to as the springboard the signal uses to jump off the boat into the atmosphere. To better understand "ground" you need to know the three different ground systems that can exist on a boat. One is your DC ground which is the negative post of the battery(s) that all of your DC powered items are ultimately common with. The second is the bonding system which is intended to tie all of the metal items in the boat together that may be susceptible to electrolysis (galvanic corrosion). The third is your RF (radio frequency) ground for a SSB radio. An astute reader will note that all three ground systems are common to at least one point, the engine. In the case of RF ground, the other ground systems are inconsequential and of no benefit to the RF system.

No Pain, No Gain. Think Metal Surface Area. The RF ground installation is different for every boat but the basics are the same. You want to attach all big metal items on the boat together with copper strap and end up with a minimum of 100 square feet of metal surface area. Starting with the Automatic Antenna Tuner, the tuner should be mounted close to the feed point for the antenna which means it is usually mounted aft. From the tuner, copper strap will run forward and attach to the engine, any (and hopefully all) metal tanks and a keel bolt (any one will do). Getting the copper to metal toerails and the stern pushpit along with the lifelines can be of tremendous benefit. When incorporating the pushpit and lifelines, extra care must be taken with the route of the antenna feed wire.

See Figure 2. Transceiver and automatic tuner connection

The copper strap is commercially available from marine electronics shops and ranges from 2" to 4" wide and in thickness from .001" to .013". Two inch wide .001" (about as thick as an extra heavy aluminum foil) is easy to install around the boat but there is a trade-off when using the thin stuff. The issue is surface area and longevity. At HF frequencies electrical energy is no longer running through the copper conductor as it does at DC voltages, but rather it is traveling on the surface. Copper strap is used instead of wire because the strap has much more surface area and offers less impedance (resistance at frequency) to the RF energy. Armed with this knowledge, we know that 4" strap is going to be more effective than 2" and that the wider material should be used whenever possible (some Whitbread boats are using 6+ inch wide copper) . However it‚s an imperfect world especially when working on boats: sometimes 4" strap just will not go from point A to B. Four inch material folded in half is one solution and sometimes the ultra thin .001" x 2" copper is the only way to go but make every effort to use bigger material. The life expectancy of .001 mil copper is shorter than thicker material because it rots from corrosion in the salt air much faster. Of course life of the copper is only an issue if it is a permanent installation . In the really perfect world, the boat builder would have laid copper screen and foil in the lay-up of the fiberglass during construction completely encapsulating the material, exiting copper tabs in the appropriate locations to attach to the tuner and metal objects. Many boat builders now offer a SSB ground plane as an option for new construction jobs.

When attaching the copper to tanks, keel and engine try to do so in a way that achieves good metal to metal surface area contact. In the case of tanks, running to an inspection plate and attaching to a couple of the bolts with large washers works well or going to a fitting on the tank and attaching the copper to it with a hose clamp also works. The latter looks crude but is effective. Some tanks have cleats or clamps holding them in place that can be loosened and the copper sandwiched in between. At the engine, choose a bolt to sandwich the copper to the block . You may want to ask your mechanic which bolt he would suggest to use.

 

Why an automatic tuner? The antenna tuner is an essential component of the installation and an automatic tuner is required for most marine installations. The tuners‚ function is to match the impedance of the antenna system (the combination of backstay or whip antenna and the ground plane) to the 50 ohm impedance of the final transmitter stage at the back of the radio. This is no small task as the impedance of the antenna system can change from a few to hundreds of ohms depending on the frequency transmitted on. So you say big deal? Only when the impedance is matched does the maximum transfer of power take place between the radio and the antenna system. Without a proper match all of the radios energy doesn‚t make it past the tuner and in turn off the boat. Energy is reflected back towards the radio producing what is called a Standing Wave (SWR), a ratio between forward and reflected power before it goes through the tuner. An imperfect match between the radio and antenna is one of the reasons lights on your electrical panel will glow and volt meters will bounce when transmitting on a SSB.

Out of the tuner comes the actual radiating high voltage. Naturally you want to radiate out of the boat, so the shorter the run from the output of the tuner to your insulated backstay or whip the better. A manual tuner will also do the job but it needs to be mounted by the radio where it can be manipulated when the desired working frequency is changed. The problem with a manual tuner being by the radio is that the radio is usually a long way from the antenna element. The long run from the tuner output to the antenna will not make an efficient antenna system and will result in a lot of RF energy being absorbed by the boat.

A word of caution about automatic antenna tuners. Automatic tuners available today from major radio manufacturers use micro processors and refined internal software to match the antenna to the transmitter. They are very good at their job, which can create a problem: auto tuners can tune what is effectively a inadequate antenna system. It has been said by some people that all you need for a ground plane is run a wire from your tuner to a metal thruhull and your system will operate. The tuner may indeed tune, but a majority of the energy from your radio is lost in the process and never escapes the boat. The difference manifests itself in being able to talk less than 1000 miles or the 6000+ miles you can achieve. Here‚s the catch: for all practical purposes, a technician cannot put a "tester" on your system and tell you definitively how good your system is. A watt meter is a tool technicians use that can be put in between a radio and the tuner to give an indication of how well the tuner is operating, but the "business end" of the tuner is the high voltage terminal that hooks to the antenna element (backstay, whip, etc.). An experienced radio technician with the aid of a watt meter and knowledge of a good quality ground installation as outlined previously can make a educated call as to whether the system is working properly, but the real proof is whether you can make 3000+ mile radio contacts consistently. Apply the rules that have proven to be effective: 100 Square feet of ground surface area connected with copper foil and good metal to metal surface area contact when making ground and antenna connections. This is an ideal installation, and not every boat will allow these goals to be met, but do your best.

Primary antennas. Your primary antenna will usually be an insulated part of your rigging or a standing fiberglass whip antenna in the back of the boat. These are both "longwire" antennas, essentially a piece of wire held up in the air. An antenna could also be as simple as a piece of 14 gauge wire (back to that in a moment). The decision to insulate the rigging or use a whip is usually driven by cost and aesthetics as either will do a proper job. On a sailing yacht, insulating the backstay is common as it makes for a clean installation. The traditional guidelines for a backstay are to have the bottom insulator 7' off the deck and 3' down from the masthead. Insulated sections of backstays longer than 35' are not necessary, however a longer antenna may perform better. The RF output from the tuner can be as high as 5000 volts at very low current and grabbing the uninsulated part of an antenna while the radio is being transmitted can cause a serious RF burn or could even be lethal! Therefore the bottom insulator is usually put 7' off the deck for safety reasons (Figure 3a).

There are other styles of fabricating a backstay antenna that offer better performance (Figure 3b, Figure 3c). The bottom insulator can be mounted at deck level or may be unnecessary when the backstay chainplate terminates to the fiberglass or wood construction of the back of the boat, which acts as an insulator. With this type of installation, the backstay must be insulated from possible contact with crew by putting an insulating material over the backstay, turnbuckle, etc. The best material is teflon tubing which has very good insulating properties, however the tubing must be installed on the backstay when the backstay is being fabricated by your rigger. A distant second best material is white nylon "snap on" shroud cover products available in chandleries. Attention must be paid to items such as bonding system wires that may be attached to the backstay chainplate(s). Also note that a bottom insulator will have to be installed above a hydraulic adjuster (3c). You may wish to hire your marine electronics dealer to inspect your boat to make installation recommendations.

Insulating a backstay can be expensive depending on what type of rigging you have, wire rope, rod or as on some race boats spectra, kevlar or technora. The cost of installing insulators sometimes leads people to use a standing whip antenna instead. The whip is tried and true and will do the job you require There are whip antennas specifically made for SSB use and are 23' or longer.

Emergency antennas. Take what we know about a primary SSB antenna from above and an emergency antenna is pretty simple; a piece of wire, 14 gauge or larger, 23' or longer from the automatic antenna tuner up into the air. The automatic antenna tuner will tune almost anything attached to it. The $5 solution is 40' of 14 gauge wire with a ring terminal sized for the output stud on your tuner, soldered on to one end.

The scenario is that you loose the rig and along with it your insulated backstay or transom mounted whip. "Lets tell everyone" being the third or fourth thing on your mind, disconnect what‚s left of the wire that went from the tuner to the now missing antenna and attach your $5 emergency antenna, stringing it up in the air by whatever means you have left on board (spinnaker pole, boat hook, etc.). If 40' is more wire than you are able to rig up, cut the new antenna as needed (no less than 20'). The antenna wire can be in an "inverted V" as in up and over a pole or mast stump, an "L" and an "inverted L" or really whatever you can rig. Physically isolating the wire from the support pole with a piece of line or a cushion on top of the pole will improve performance. It‚s really that simple because the high quality ground system that you installed at the beginning of this article is still in tact and the power of the computer inside your automatic tuner does the rest.

Wire, connectors and techniques. The cost of high quality materials are a drop in the bucket when compared to the cost of the equipment you‚re installing. Marine specific materials do cost more, but the performance benefits over the long haul will be worth it. Tinned wire and connectors for corrosion protection, wire of the proper size, sealing tape to keep you connections dry and flat copper strap are parts of a good installation. The basic techniques are soldering connections, keep all connections bone dry and good electrical connection surface area contact.

While transmitting a SSB radio on a 12 volt system, the peak current draw can be 25 amps for the average 150 watt radio. This amount of current requires heavier gauge wire than most of the other equipment on board. For the supply wire size you require, refer to the "wire size to % voltage drop" table from the ABYC or the same table printed in the Ancor Marine Grade Products catalog. When terminating the supply wire, use the correct size crimp ring terminal for the wire. Soldering the wire to the terminal as well is highly recommended. Slip on some marine type heatshrink tubing around the terminal and wire for a professional finish that provides a strain relief and water protection for the wire.

There are usually two cables from the radio to the tuner, one for RF and one to supply operating voltage / control to the tuner. Follow your radio manufacturers recommendations for the control cable and consult your dealer. The RF connection from the radio to the tuner should be made with RG-8U or RG-213 coax. This is the big 1/2" stuff and will offer the least resistance to the RF energy. The antenna connectors are UHF type PL-259. They are tricky to make up the first couple of times and may require a professional hand. PL-259s are available in solder and crimp types. Get only the solder type unless you have a $100 UHF crimp tool, then still get the solder type. It makes a better connection.

From the tuner to the antenna element, use GTO-15 type single conductor wire. GTO-15 is a high voltage wire with a thicker jacket and special insulation material rated to 15,000 volts. Since a SSB antenna can develop much higher voltages than what standard boat cable is rated for, GTO-15 reduces signal loss and the risk of shock. The connection at the output of the tuner is a threaded stud. A properly sized ring terminal should be soldered to one end of the GTO-15 and affixed to the stud. Then the whole thing, stud, ring terminal and wire should be wrapped with a self sealing waterproof tape such as 3M 2242. 2242 is a soft tape with a 200% stretch factor, and boy is it watertight. As the GTO-15 leaves the tuner try not to run it close to other wires and metal objects. You will usually exit the hull with a watertight through deck gland of some type and then to the antenna element. If you are going to a insulated backstay, strip off 3" of the GTO-15 insulation, wrap the conductor around the swage several times and clamp with a small hose clamp. The last step is to wrap with the sealing tape. KEEP THE CONNECTION DRY and it will last! If your backstay is wire rope, clamp onto the swage and not the wire rope. The fact that the swage is a smooth surface enables better surface area contact with the wire and it will provide for a better seal with the sealing tape.

To further reduce the amount of RF energy absorbed by the boat, standoffs can be fabricated to support the GTO-15 away from the backstay between the deck and the insulator (figure 3a).

By following some basic guide lines and techniques a high performance Single Sideband radio installation can be achieved with a little extra effort. Good quality materials improve performance and can greatly extend the life of the installation. The quality of the installation will impact your satisfaction with your radio purchase, not to mention the fun and piece of mind in being able to make long distance communications from anywhere on the globe.

ERIC STEINBERG is the owner of Farallon Electronics located in Sausalito, California. He is an FCC licensed Marine Electronics Technician specializing in electronic systems on vessels to 150'. His areas of expertise include SSB / satellite communications, navigation, weather and yacht racing instrumentation. He is a sought after racing yacht specialist with in-depth experience on performance boats from IMS Maxis to Melges 24s. Eric has been sailing since he was 5 years old and has many ocean miles to his credit including Hawaii, the Caribbean and the Panama Canal.

Eric may be contacted at 415-331-1924 (office), 415-331-2063 (fax) or gofarallon@aol.com (email).

Materials, manufacturers and outlets for materials in this article.

150 watt Marine SSB radio & tuners

Icom, SGC and SEA (@ electronics dealers)

Copper ground strap

Newmar, Farallon Electronics

Copper braid, 1" tubular

Farallon Electronics

RG-8U, RG-213, GTO-15

Ancor Marine Products (@ electronics dealers & chandleries)

Backstay insulators

Navtec, Ronstan (@ rigging shops)

Whip antennas

Shakespere, Glassmaster (@ electronics dealers & chandleries)

Marine heatshrink tubing

Ancor Marine Products (@ electronics dealers & chandleries)

Teflon Tubing

Farallon Electronics

Ferrite chokes

Farallon Electronics

Crimp terminals

Ancor Marine Products (@ electronics dealers & chandleries

UHF PL-259 connector

Amphenol (@ electronics dealers & chandleries)

3M 2242 sealing tape

Farallon Electronics

UltraTorch professional soldering and heat tool

Farallon Electronics

Crimping tool for non-insulated terminals

Tool supply stores

©1998 Eric Steinberg, Farallon Electronics, ESCO.

Offshore weather resources, in a nutshell

Course Outline by Jim Corenman

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->1. Look Outdoors

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->a. Calibrated barometer/barograph

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->b. Wind speed and direction

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->c. Cloud observations

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->2. Warnings and text forecasts (general info: http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/home.htm)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->a. Via HF SSB (voice) from USCG http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/hfvoice.htm

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->b. Via HF SITOR (radiotelex) from USCG http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/hfsitor.htm

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->c. Via email from Saildocs (email: info@saildocs.com)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->d. Via sat-phone/Internet http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/forecast.htm

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->3. Radiofax charts via HF-SSB http://weather.noaa.gov/fax/marine.shtml

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->4. Forecast data in Grib format

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->a. Sources:

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->i. Saildocs (email gribinfo@saildocs.com)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->ii. Global Marine Net (http://www.globalmarinenet.net/grib.htm)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->iii. http://www.navcenter.com/

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->b. Viewers and grib-compatible chart programs:

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->i. Airmail/Viewfax (http://www.siriuscyber.net/wxfax)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->ii. MaxSea (http://www.maxseainc.com/index.html or http://setsail.com/maxsea/intro.html)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->iii. Raytech (http://www.raymarine.com)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->c. How to get it

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->i. Sailmail (http://www.sailmail.com)

<!--[if !supportLists]--> <!--[endif]-->ii. Iridium (http://iridium.com)

 

Stan Honey's Weather Advice

Stan Honey has navigated in fourteen transpacific races, finishing first six times. As navigator, Stan has set the single-handed, double-handed, and fully-crewed passage records for monohulls to Hawaii. In 1996, Stan and Sally (Lindsay Honey) won the Pacific Cup overall, sailing their Cal 40 Illusion doublehanded. This year Stan will be navigating the Turbosled Pyewacket.

Overall race structure and necessary decisions

The primary feature that determines the tactics in a transpacific race is the Pacific High. Typically there is no wind in the center of the high, and increasing wind as you get farther south, up to a limit. The central question concerning course selection is: how close to sail to the high, or how many extra miles to sail to get farther from the high? In years when the Pacific High is weak (or weakening) and positioned well south, there can be strikingly more wind to the south. There have been transpacific races where yachts that are 10 miles to the south of competitors can experience one knot more wind. An ultra-light-displacement-maxi (sled), in one knot more wind will sail 1/2 knot faster, and therefore would gain 12 miles per day on the northern competitor. Smaller uldb's will similarly gain from the additional wind. Although the gain is less for heavier boats, it is still a significant factor. This condition can persist for the entire middle third of the race. Note that all yachts in this middle third of the race are nearly fetching the finish on starboard pole, so the boats caught too far north cannot jibe out of their predicament without sailing a dramatically unfavored angle, and passing far astern of the competitors to the south.

Occasionally, however, the Pacific High will be strong (or strengthening), and located far to the north. In these conditions, it IS possible to be too far south. The boats that sail closer to the high will not only get more wind, but will sail the shorter distance. Typically in these sorts of years, the wind stays "reachy" throughout the middle third of the race, so the boats that paid extra distance to get south cannot even "cash in" the southing and reach up in front of the northern boats, because everyone is reaching fast.

The start and exit from the Bay

Get a comfortable start. It is senseless to risk a foul or collision at the start of a 2000 mile race, so consider starting 15 to 30 seconds late. The start is generally scheduled for an ebb tide, so this discussion will make that assumption. Tack shortly after the start, and take long tacks across the center of the bay in order to stay in the favorable current. Pass under the bridge at mid-span.

After clearing Seal Rocks the wind velocity will reduce and the wind will begin to veer. As you free your sheets you need to work out your overall race tactics; the course that you select for the first night and the next day will determine your tactics for the rest of the race.

The three portions of the Pacific Cup:

It is helpful to think of the Pacific Cup in three sections:

1. the windy reach to the ridge;

2. "slotcars" through the middle third; and

3. the run for the last third..

The Pacific High nearly always has a ridge extending from its southeast corner. On the weather map this is visible as a "U" shape in the isobars on the southeast corner of the high. After leaving coastal waters, you will have a windy reach for a couple of days, depending on your yacht's speed, but when you get to the ridge, the wind will lighten and veer very quickly. Within 6 hours after you initially set the spinnaker, the wind will lift and you will be running on your downwind polars in much lighter air. You just crossed the ridge.

The most critical decision of the Pacific Cup is where to cross the ridge. The reason this is critical is, once you get to the ridge and the wind comes back, you can not get farther south. It never pays to sail lower than your polars, and you can not jibe (onto the dramatically unfavored port pole) without huge penalty. That is why the middle third of the race is called "slotcars."

As you left the coast you made your decision where you wanted to cross the ridge, you sailed there, and now you have to live with it for four or five days. If you are too far to the north, you will be slowly destroyed by the yachts to the south of you, and there is nothing that you can do about it; you cannot jibe (without huge penalty), and you should not sail lower than your polars. If you are substantially too far north, you will experience torture. As the wind gets lighter, your polars force you to sail higher and higher, until you "spin out" up into the high. If you have to jibe to avoid total calm, your angle on port pole will have you heading due south, far behind your competitor's transoms. The "slotcars" leg ends when the wind eventually veers far enough so that both jibes are symmetrical around the course to the finish, allowing you to sail either jibe.

The final third of the race is "the run." This is why we sail Pacific Cups. The wind picks up as you approach the Islands, and you get to practice your helmsmanship surfing tradewind swells. Generally the right hand side of the course is favored in the final third of the race, because the wind slowly veers as you sail west.

In the final third of the race the wind speed is generally even across the course. Oddly, the boats that get too far north in the middle of the race, and stew about it for 3-4 days, often jibe onto port as soon as they can, sailing to the south when there is no longer a windspeed advantage. These boats then miss the right shift in the last third of the race and lose even more.

Instead, favor starboard pole until you can nearly lay the Islands, and then approach Oahu on port pole. Be sure to account for the fact that the wind will continue to veer, and do not overstand Kaneohe. One way to avoid overstanding is to plot a waypoint that is 60-100 miles directly upwind of the finish and jibe onto port pole when you can lay that waypoint. The wind will continue to shift to the right, so that when you actually cross the line that is upwind of the finish you may find that you are substantially closer to Kaneohe than your initial waypoint.

Approaching the Finish

Arrange your final jibe or two so that you pass 10 miles due upwind of the finish. Then sail half the remaining distance on starboard pole, and then make your final 5 mile approach on port pole. As you approach the finish, plot your track on the chart, and take GPS fixes as well as periodic bearings with your hand bearing compass. The finish buoy is hard to see. The best technique is to plot your position and navigate to the finish, rather than expect to see the buoy. It's not even worth looking for the buoy until you navigate to within about one half mile of it.

In the daytime, take bearings on:

Makapuu (the left edge of Oahu)

Mokapu (the turtle's head)

the giant ping pong balls near Pyramid Rock (labeled "radomes" on chart)

Pyramid Rock (white house with diagonal stripes on conical rock)

At night, take bearings on:

Molokai light, range 28 miles, loom visible 60 miles (flashing 10s)

Makapuu light (occulting 10s)

Marine AeroBeacon, sometimes obscured (alt green/white or red/white)

Pyramid Light (occulting 4s)

(if you don't know what "occulting" means then refresh your coastal piloting skills)

Remember that the reef is only 0.8 miles beyond the finish line, so douse your spinnaker promptly. If for some reason you have trouble dousing your spinnaker, jibe onto starboard and sheet your mainsail hard. If you can maintain a beam reach, even with the kite flogging in the rigging, you will stay clear of the reef.

Squalls

Typically, you will get tradewind squalls for the last three or four nights of the race. They only occur at night, starting about midnight and continuing and strengthening until dawn. If there is a moon, the squalls are visible for miles because of their incredible height. If there is no moon, you can often detect squalls behind you by watching for the absence of stars. If you have radar, squalls are easily detectable. Each squall on a given night will behave almost exactly like its predecessor, except it will be a little stronger. So "go to school" on each squall in order to sort out how to best take advantage of the next one. If one squall provided more fun than you really wanted, douse the kite and wing out a jib for the next one. If a squall is approaching, and you get rain before the wind, prepare for lots of wind. At dawn the squalls vanish, but leave calm zones around and particularly behind them. These calm zones are worth taking great care to avoid.

The comments below assume normal right shifting squalls. Occasionally there will be a night of squalls with no wind shifts in them, or even with left shifts. The following characterizations are very typical, but the best prediction of what you will experience in a squall is the experience you had in the previous squall the same night.

In contrast to popular perception, squalls do not generally work the way "catspaws" do. Catspaws have diverging wind in front of them. Surprisingly, tradewind squalls often have converging winds at their leading edge. The wind converges because there is an updraft in front of the squall. In addition, the average wind in the squall is generally veered about 15 degrees or so to the right of the prevailing surface wind, and the squall itself moves about 15 degrees to the right of the path of the surface wind. Behind squalls the wind is light, particularly near dawn.

If you want to race aggressively, watch for squalls and jibe to get in front of them. As they overtake you, jibe to port pole. Stay on port pole during the squall, sailing as deep as you dare, and then jibe back to starboard only when the squall has passed completely over you and your wind speed and angle have returned to the prevailing conditions. If you jibe back to starboard pole too early, you run the risk of crossing behind the squall and getting into the light air in the wake of the squall. If you have the good fortune to be sailing on a sled, you can sail fast enough to stay in the accelerated wind in front of the squall for hours. This requires jibing back and forth in front of the squall, jibing about every 15 minutes. Each jibe "back" towards the squall will be at a horrible angle, because of the way that the wind "toes in" in front of the squall, but jibe back anyway. The additional wind velocity in front of the squall makes up for the horrible angle. If you are racing aggressively, you will jibe over 50 times in a Pacific Cup, with most jibes taking place at night in squalls.

Port pole is more effective to avoid the calm behind a squall because the squall itself is moving to the right of the path of the surface wind, so port pole allows you to diverge rapidly from the light air area behind the squall. It is perilous to exit a squall on starboard pole because of the risk of getting becalmed behind the squall, particularly near dawn.

Weather Information

The best source of information about the future position and strength of the high comes from the 500 mb progs via weatherfax. Interpreting upper level charts is beyond the scope of this article, but various colleges have Meteorology courses. The next best sources of data are the surface analysis and surface progs which are also available via weatherfax. Satellite imagery via NOAA APT satellites is fun, but not really essential for a race in the tradewinds. Save this system for use in middle and high latitudes where there are lows and cold fronts to observe.

Author's Disclaimers

All of the above comments are relevant to typical Pacific Cups. There are unusual races in which you have to break the above rules to win.

Pay attention to your boat's polars. If you are racing a light displacement boat, it is worth sailing extra miles to get extra wind, because no matter how hard it blows, a light boat will sail still faster if you get more wind. On the other hand, if you are racing a heavy displacement boat, do not sail any extra miles in order to get more wind than necessary to reach hull speed. If you sail farther to get more wind, you will have more fun, but your average speed will not increase enough to pay for the extra distance.

Watch for tropical depressions. The inverted troughs that extend north of a tropical depression can cause the tradewind direction to shift from normal. This can make a huge difference as you are picking your approach to the Islands.

Finally

Pick your strategy, and stick to it. Then whatever happens, make up your story for the bar in Kaneohe, and stick to it.

Finding Kaneohe Bay

by Louis Ickler

Finding Kaneohe Bay is not difficult, but it can be confusing, especially if this is your first time. The mental image you have may not be what you will see. At the end of a long race across the ocean most of us are eager to get in and there is a temptation to skip some of the navigational details. DON'T DO IT!

The only way to ensure a safe landfall is to use proper navigational techniques. And you absolutely must have a copy of Chart 19359 (Oct 2003 edition) to enter Kaneohe Bay.

Let's begin with the approach. Most sailors think they are coming from the east and expect the islands to appear ahead of them to the west. Actually, since Hawaii is south of San Francisco's latitude, you will probably be coming in more from the north. Only the ULDBs and boats that can gain from sailing well south of the rhumb line will be on a westerly heading, and many boats coming into Kaneohe will not even sight the island of Molokai which lies east of Oahu, or Molokai Light, on its east end.

Another source of confusion is the orientation of Oahu; since the windward coast lies on a line from southeast to northwest and Kaneohe Bay is several miles from the east end, not on the east end. The answer to these problems of perception is, of course, to use your charts and make sure of your position before you are close to land. This will save you from sailing into Kailua Bay or sailing right by Kaneohe Bay.

By daylight you will see the high cliffs all along the north shore of Oahu, and at the extreme eastern end of Oahu the headland known as Makapuu, a 650-foot black cliff with a lighthouse near the top of the cliff. Makapuu Light is an occulting light, turning off briefly every 10 seconds, and is visible as far as 20 miles at night. To your right (west) from Makapuu, the lights of Waimanalo and Kailua will glow on the horizon, and just to the right of Kailua you should be able to see the rotating, flashing green and two white flashes of the aero beacon at Kaneohe Marine Corps Air Station (Mokapu Peninsula). (This beacon rotates red and white if the airfield is closed, which is unusual)

From about ten miles out you should spot an island, below or just left of the aero beacon, called Mokumanu, about four miles from the eastern point of Oahu. This marks the eastern side of the mouth of Kaneohe Bay. As you close the coast the aero beacon may disappear as Mokumanu Island rises in front of it, and the lights inside Kaneohe Bay will become more distinct. Remember to keep Mokumanu to your left, (the breakers offshore of Mokumanu are a very real danger even in daylight - stay well clear and to the right of the Danger Zone yellow cans A & E and flashing yellow buoys B, C, & D) and start looking for Pyramid Rock. Pyramid Rock is on the western shore at the Kaneohe Marine Corps Air Station and is on what looks like a small rock, but is in fact 100 feet up and has a 4-second occulting white light on top. This light and the aero beacon will line up to form the finish line for the Pacific Cup, along with a temporary strobe placed for this race, and you should be in contact with the Pacific Cup Finish Line before you get to this line. Since there are shoals to the east, it is prudent to finish close to the strobe on a course that will take you to R2 buoy. The finish line buoy is approved to be placed at approximately 21º 28’ 50” N and 157º 46’ 21” W.

Excellent! You have now finished the race. While someone is confirming your finish time with the race committee you should have the rest of the crew on deck and ready to turn right 90 degrees well before you reach the R2 buoy, a 2.5 second red light, that marks the start of the Sampan Channel into the Bay. If your boat draws more than seven feet and you arrive during a low tide, you will need to make this right turn and sail three and one-quarter miles on a heading of 320 magnetic to K buoy, from which you can enter the Main Ship Channel with plenty of water for any boat. If you draw less than 7 feet and want to use the Sampan Channel, you can return to R2 after clearing your decks and getting ready to motor or sail. For either channel coming into the Bay,

contact the escort boat on station at R2 to guide you in to the yacht club through whichever channel you elect. If unsure, your escort will be able to provide you with tide and depth information of the Sampan Channel when you arrive.

If you come in the Sampan Channel, follow the escort and line up the range lights on the shore in Kaneohe, a flashing red and fixed red. The channel gradually becomes shallow, reaching no less than seven feet at the inshore end. Leaving this channel your escort will lead you in a turn to the left, then past unlit G23 and the lighted G25 daymarks on your left and 4-second red lighted R22 on your right.

If you enter via the Main Ship Channel, take a heading of 227 magnetic at K Buoy (flashing a Morse A white light) and line up the flashing red range lights on the far shore. When you reach the quick flashing red range mark on a piling in the middle of the channel, turn left and now line up this quick flashing red with another occulting red on the shore behind you. This back range will take you in to the next turn at G15, an unlighted buoy. At G15 turn left again, and stay close to (but NEVER North of) a line from G15 to G17, a quick-flashing green buoy. You will pass flashing 2.5s red R18 (daymark), then flashing 4.0s red R20 (buoy). Look for a red daymark (lighted 4 seconds red at night) marked R22, just past the inshore end of the Sampan Channel, and keep it to your right.

From R22 to R26 (an unlighted red nun) at the north end of Coconut Island and then right and down the Bay is all easy sailing in plenty of water and usually a broad reach. There are two routes into the club, one north (actually east) of the "Coral Patch" and one to the south. Your escort will lead you to a point due west of Kaneohe Yacht Club and line you up to enter the south channel. The North Channel is trickier, with an unmarked shoal about 400 yards north-northwest of the "garbage can" daymark and you should have a long talk with a local sailor before trying it. From the entrance to the south, your escort wilI guide you in; look for the two fixed red lights on the KYC lawn for a range, and keep a square green mark on a stake at the south side of the coral patch on your left. Keep the three red marks on stakes on the edge of a coral shoal to the south of the channel to your right.

After entering the basin at the yacht club you wilI be directed to a berth by the mooring officer. If the moorings are placed as they have been in previous Pacific Cup finishes, there will be ten buoys placed about 100 feet west of the bulkhead at the club, numbered from 1 on the south (your right as you enter) to number 10 on the north. The bow of your boat wilI probably be tied to the bulkhead with a line from the stem to one of the mooring buoys, and you should have a long line available at the stem for this purpose. Be careful throwing lines ashore or you might hit the tray of Mai Tai's and cold beer coming aboard.

All of us at Kaneohe Yacht Club wish everyone fair winds and following seas…and no race has more of that than the Pacific Cup.

Housing in Kaneohe

Accommodations for Pacific Cup Racers, Families and Visitors.

The towns nearest Kaneohe Yacht Club are Kaneohe, Kailua and Lanikai - so if you want to be near your boat start by looking for lodging in these towns. There are no large name brand hotels in any of these towns - so think B&B, Condo and Home rental. In Hawaii, a B&B is not a grand old house with all the amenities- at a hotel like price. B&B's in Hawaii are spare rooms in someone's home or a guest cottage - at a very reasonable price. If you want a big name brand hotel, you'll need to look at Waikiki or North Shore - about a 45 minute drive from Kaneohe Yacht Club.

We strongly recommend beginning with HCVB's (Hawaii Convention & Visitors Bureau) website www.gohawaii.com. It has links to many of the following addresses. For those not online, some telephone numbers are listed below.

Regular Listings

This collection are the various ongoing commercial establishments on Oahu that are available. It you manage or own such an establishment we would be happy to list your informaion here (briefly, necessary contact information only). Contact us via email (walt@hawaii.rr.com) if this is of interest.

Some of the listings below will have many properties available, others will be singular. Also, many B&B owners remain independent of associations. They do however refer business to one another. If you speak to someone who is booked or cannot suit your needs, ask them for referrals!

Our B&B experts advise web searches as follows:

http://www.vacationhosts.com

http://hawaii-vacation-homes.com

http://www.google.com and search on "Oahu Beach Rental"

http://cyberrentals.com/HI/HI

http://www.ownerdirect.com

http://www.vrbo.com

Below are listings taken from the HCVB website listings, the Kailua-Kaneohe telephone book and the Kailua Chamber of Commerce. (We attempted to sort them to include those that should have accommodations on the Windward side but make NO guarantees.)

Aala Hale
808-261-7731

Access to Hawaii's Best
808-261-0766

A Kailua Beach Vacation Accommodations:
22 Palione Pl
Kailua, HI 96734
Ph.808-255-1983
http://www.kailuavacationbeachhouse.com/
dhirsch@hawaii.rr.com

Affordable Paradise Bed & Breakfast Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu
808-261-1693
http://www.affordable-paradise.de
afford@aloha.net.

Ali`i Bed & Breakfast Vacation Rental on O`ahu
237 Awakea Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
808-262-9545
http://www.kaysvacation.com
brenda@lava.net

Ali`i Bluffs Windward B & B Bed & Breakfast
46-251 Iki`iki St.,
Kane`ohe, HI 96744
http://www.hawaiiscene.com/aliibluffs

All Islands Bed and Breakfasts
808-263-2342
http://www.all-islands.com

All Islands Timeshare Resales Timeshare on O`ahu.
305 Royal Hawaiian Ave,
Ste 302
Honolulu, HI 96815
http://www.timeshare-hawaii.com
timeshar@timeshare-hawaii.com

Aloha Punawai Apartments on O`ahu.
http://www.alternative-hawaii.com/alohapunawai/
aloha-punawai@hawaii.rr.com

Alohawaii Properties By The Sea Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
481-A1 Kawailoa Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
http://www.kailuabeach.com
alohawaii@cheerful.com

Andrea's Vacation Rental
808-263-0308

B&B By The Bay
One room, queen bed, private bath, on the water.  Walking distance to the Club. 
Phone: (808) 235-2213
Email: tuturenie@aol.com

B & B Pillows In Paradise Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu.
336 Awakea Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
808-262-8540
http://www.isstb.com/pillows
103631.305@compuserve.com

Beachfront Kawela Bay Home Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
Lot 122
Kawela Bay, Kahuku, HI
808-737-6215
johnston@lava.net

Beach Lane B&B & Cottages
808-262-8286
beachlane2@aol.com

Bed Breakfast on Waimamalo Beach
Betty Miller
41-973 Laumilo St.
Waimanalo, HI 96795
Phone#(808)259-5313
Email: bedbreakfastbeach@hotmail.com
Website: www.bedbreakfastbeach.com

Best Beach Hawaii Vacation Rentals
310-927-8830
www.bestbeach-hi.com
bestbeach@yahoo.com

Elegant Hideaways
32 Kainehe St.
Kailua, HI 96734
(808) 263-0707

European Heritage Society
808-262-6026

Fairway View B&B
808-263-6439
fairway515@aol.com

Go Condo Hawaii Booking & Reservation on O`ahu
http://www.gocondohawaii.com
sales@gocondohawaii.com

2-Bedroom house,
Just 4 blocks from KYC
Spectacular Kaneohe Bay view!
Phone: 808-780-1691
email: bethg@hawaii.rr.com

Hale Mali`e Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
137 Mookua St
Kailua, HI 96734
808-261-1755
http://www.homeinhawaii.net
mgm@hawaii.rr.com

Haitt Hale
808-262-7170

Hawaii Aloha Unterkunste
808-261-5446
verena@hawaii-aloha.net

Hawaii's 10 Best Vacation Rentals
Over 30 Selected Beachfront Estates, Executive Homes and Cottages along Kailua Beach, Oahu, Hawaii
http://www.bnb-hawaii.com
Email: Peter Osborne at HawaiiHomes@hawaii.rr.com

Hawaii Condo Exchange Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://hawaiicondoexchange.com
ay@hawaiicondoexchange.com

Hawaiian Beach Rentals
Denise Pancurak
808-262-6968
http://www.hawaiianbeachrentals.com
Oahu Vacation Rentals
Multiple Oahu vacation rentals specializing in beautiful Kailua and Lanikai Beach.

Hawaii Connection Booking & Reservation on O`ahu
http://www.hawaiiconnection.com
hawaii@hawaiiconnection.com

Hawaii Kai Retirement Community Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
428 Kawaihae St
Honolulu, HI 96825
808-395-9599

Hawaiian Islands Bed and Breakfast and Vacation Rentals
800-258-7895 or 808-261-7895

Hostelling International-Honolulu Hostel on O`ahu
2323A Seaview Ave,
Honolulu, HI 96822
808-946-0591s
anaki@aol.com

Kahana Kai Estates Bed & Breakfast on O'ahu
53-103 Kamehameha Hy,
Punalu`u, HI 96717
http://www.kahanakai.com
kahanakaiestate@webtv.net

Kailua Beachfront Vacation Rental Vacation Rental on O`ahu
Kailua, HI 96734
http://kailuana.com
kailuana@pixi.com

Kailua Beachside Cottages
204 S. Kalaheo Ave.
Kailua, HI 96734
808-262-4128

Kailua Kottages
362 Kailua Rd.
Kailua, HI 96734.
808-262-1163

Kaneohe Oceanside Home Vacation Rental
Located near Kaneohe Yacht Club
Jackie Black 808-236-4277
http://kaneohehome.tripod.com/

Kolealea At Malaekahana Bay Vacation Rental on O`ahu.
56-253 Kam Hwy,
Kahuku, HI 96731
808-293-0335
pmg@carlsmith.com

Ko Olina Resort
(808) 843-2201 office
(808) 841-1512 fax
Fran Villarmia-Kahawai
www.kailanihawaii.com
www.armstrongbuilders.com

Lani Kailua Beach Rentals
Ula Romano
http://www.lanikailuabeachrentals.com/

Manu Mele Bed & Breakfast Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu
Address: 153 Kailuana Pl,
Kailua, HI 96734
URL: http://www.pixi.com/~manumele
Email: manumele@pixi.com

Pacific Islands Reservations
808-262-8133

Papaya Paradise Bed & Breakfast Bed & Breakfast on O`ahu.
395 Auwinala Rd
Kailua, HI 96734
808-261-0316
http://www.bnbweb.com/papaya.html
kailua@compuserve.com

Pat's Kailua Beach Rentals
808-261-1653
pgeo@earthlink.net

Schrader's Windward Country Inn
Phone: (808) 239-5711
47-039 Lihikai Drive
Kaneohe, HI 96744
Schrader's Windward Country Inn

Sharon's Serenity
808-262-5621

Sheffield House Bed and Breakfast
808-262-0721

The Viewhouse in Lanikai
808-262-0788

Team Real Estate Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://www.teamrealestate.com
luckyc@ibm.net

Trinity Properties
Annie Quock
http://www.trinityproperties.com
808-247-7521

VacationHosts.com Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://www.vacationhosts.com
surf@hawaii.rr.com

Villa Network of Hawaii Vacation Rental on O`ahu
http://www.luxuryvacationhomes.com
info@luxuryvacationhomes.com

Information from the Kaneohe Yacht Club Escort to All Racers

Information from the Kaneohe Yacht Club Escort to All Racers

 

The Finish Line for the Pacific Cup Yacht Race is outside of Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, at a spot on the ocean described to you in your Sailing Instructions.  You should have, and should review, a Kaneohe Bay Chart No. 19359, 12^th Ed. 07/07.

 

There will be an escort boat on scene as you finish (IF your check-in data with KYC Base is accurate as you approach; otherwise, they’re on their way!).  The KYC Escort Committee is ready, willing, and able to assist you with getting through the channel of your choice (either Sampan or Main Ship) and the surrounding reefs and turning you over to the Mooring Committee at Kaneohe Yacht Club.  It is important to note that you are not required to accept the assistance of an escort vessel; it is your choice to follow them into Kaneohe Bay or not.

 

When you radio your 25-mile check, it is important to let KYC Base know the following:  1) Whether or not you want an escort boat, 2) Your yacht’s draft, and 3) Your choice of channel to enter the Bay.  The Escort Committee will be aware of the tides when you finish the race and will also know the most shallow depth of the Sampan Channel at mean low tide, so will be able to discuss your choice of channel, if you are in doubt.

 

The escort vessel will stand by after you finish the race until you are ready to proceed.  Please remember that all escort committee members are trained volunteers who take their duty seriously, but you have the ultimate responsibility for your vessel and crew.  You’ve come a long way, but your job isn’t over until you are safely moored…and we want to help you do just that!

 

The escort vessel will have some very specific instructions for you to follow, such as:

 

<!--[if !supportLists]-->1)    <!--[endif]-->After crossing the finish line, you may wish to continue sailing until entering the calmer waters inside Kaneohe Bay.  During the daylight hours, this would be preferred.  However, arriving at night and never having made the trip before, it might be better to turn into the wind before entering the Sampan Channel, drop sails, start your engine and follow the escort boat under power. You can discuss this with your escort vessel.

 

<!--[if !supportLists]-->2)    <!--[endif]-->Have someone on your vessel maintain radio contact with the escort vessel at all times.  The escort vessel will keep a constant watch on your yacht as you follow them, but they must be able to communicate with you at all times to adjust speeds, make turns, hand off to Mooring, etc.  We do need cooperation from you to get you and your yacht safely into Kaneohe Bay and to the ice-cold Mai Tai’s, beer, and Hawaiian hospitality.

 

If your yacht draws 7’ or less, you will come into the bay via the Sampan Channel.  The range marks coming down the channel are very easy to see at night…not so easy to see during the daylight hours.  After passing R “2”, you will follow your escort to the junction of Sampan and Main Ship channels (just past GR C “S”), then bear left until passing just left of Coconut Island.  You’ll then have about 15 minutes in calm, open water to make your final preparations for mooring.

 

Drawing more than 7’ (and depending on the tide), you will probably come into Kaneohe Bay via the Main Ship Channel and it will take you approximately one to two additional hours to get to the Club.  After crossing the Finish Line you will turn right and continue to sail on a magnetic heading of approximately 320º to get to RW “K-Buoy” off the entrance to the channel.  Using the Main Ship Channel, your escort vessel will probably meet you at “K-Buoy”, rather than at the Finish Line off the Sampan Channel.  The escort vessel will, however, be in radio contact with you immediately after you finish the race.  Following in the wake of your escort, you will proceed down the range marks, then turn left at the lower range mark (sitting on a piling in the middle of the channel) and proceed to the junction of Main Ship and Sampan Channels, just past  GR C “S”.  You will then continue following your escort as described above for Sampan Channel entry to the Bay.

 

In order to plan the channel you’ll transit and the place you will moor, it’s critical to know how much water your yacht draws.  Although that information is required on your Entry Form, confirming that information at your 25-mile check is extremely helpful to both you and everyone involved in receiving you at Kaneohe Yacht Club.  Be prepared to have a safe and fun trip across the Pacific…we look forward to assisting and greeting you!

 

Aloha,

Iwalani C. Stone

Chairman, KYC Escort Committee

Long-Term Mooring in Oahu

Here is some information regarding available long term mooring once your 10 days at KYC has expired.

MAKANI KAI YACHT CLUB MARINA http://www.mkmarina.org/TheMarina.html (on Kaneohe Bay across from KYC) Email: http://www.mkyc.org/Contact_Us.html (808) 235-4416 (Rick or Terry) or Contact Mikihala Texeira at (808) 247-9680.

DAVE LUNG (private owner) (next to Kaneohe Yacht Club). Two floating docks available in very sheltered and secure cove. Will moor yachts up to 80' LOA with 8-10' draft and multihulls up to 30' beam. Includes: water, 30 amp service, telephone, dock box, parking and limited storage. $10.00 ft./mo., $400.00 min. Call or fax Dave Lung at (808) 247-1967

HEEIA KEA HARBOR (approx. 3mi. from KYC) (808) 233-3603, H

KEEHI MARINE CENTER (24 Sand Island Rd., Honolulu) (808) 845-6465

ALA WAI SMALL BOAT HARBOR
Ala Wai Harbor Master (Meghan Straits) (808) 973-9727
Hawaii Yacht Club (Port Captain) (808) 944-9666
Waikiki Yacht Club (Port Captain) (808) 955-4405

Ko`Olina Marina (808) 679-1050

www.koolinamarina.com

Cruising the Hawaiian Islands

by Steve Hunt

OK, so you made it in the “Fun Race to Hawaii!” Why not go for a “Fun Cruise” of some of the Hawaiian Islands before returning to the rat race? That’s just what my wife Marilyn and I did a few weeks after we finished the 1994 West Marine Pacific Cup race.

Everyone knows how important preparation is for the race. Well, it’s just as important for a successful cruising adventure.

We approached both elements as separate projects. To do well in the race, off comes all the heavy cruising gear. Fortunately, you can ship your anchors, chain, dinghy, outboard and all the heavy items you can imagine from the Bay Area, Seattle or Los Angeles. We built a sturdy wooden crate to hold it all, took it to Hawaiian Express in Hayward a few days before the start of the race, and it was delivered to us at Kaneohe Yacht Club about 14 days later, all for a reasonable fee.

To plan our trip we obtained a Marine Atlas of the Hawaiian Islands, which had copies of all the NOAA charts, a copy of Charlie’s Charts and sought local knowledge available from many members of the Kaneohe Yacht Club. We spent about 3 weeks on our trip and feel that was adequate for the islands we visited. The best sailing in sheltered waters in all of the Hawaiian Islands is right in Kaneohe Bay. It’s a little confusing at first and you might run aground once or twice, but you will soon get to it. We did quite a bit of sailing in the bay before departing on our cruise of the islands. Our itinerary took us first from Kaneohe Bay to Hale-o-Lono harbor on Molokai, then to Manele Bay on Lanai. Then a quick look at Kahoolawe, and on to Okoe Bay near the southwestern tip of the big island of Hawaii. We worked our way up along the western shore of Hawaii, across to Maui and up along its western shore to Honolua Bay. Then on to the north shore of Molokai to Ilio Point and returning again to Kaneohe Bay to conclude our trip.

In more detail, we left the bulkhead at KYC at 0900 and arrived at the Hale-o-Lono anchorage on Molokai about 1600. The entrance and exit can be a little dicey with big waves, but certainly doable in most conditions. Just don’t lose steerage way. This is an old barge harbor and is protected except when southerly winds blow. It’s about the right distance to travel for your first day.

We left Hale-o-Lono about 1000 the next day headed for Kaena Point on the Island of Lanai. We tried to work our way west along the south shore of Molokai before going across, but winds were right on the nose. We tacked and headed for Kaena Point in 25/30 knots of wind, gusting to 35 knots, greatly appreciating our autopilot and dodger. We had been told this should be a good anchorage, although a little exposed. We decided it was unsafe under existing conditions and continued on to the sheltered commercial harbor of Kaumalapau two thirds of the way down the western shore where we spent the night. Interesting, but too commercial for us. The passage along the western shore was very protected and beautiful with high cliffs and spectacular scenery. Next time we would skip Kaumalapau (don’t these names get you?) and go to the Manele Bay on the south shore.

Twenty years ago we spent several days anchored in White Manele Bay in a small chartered sailboat, so it was fun to return. However, White Manele is now a marine sanctuary, so you can’t anchor there. We continued on to the harbor at Black Manele and were greeted by a school of spinner dolphins upon our arrival. The Harbormaster on Lanai was great. She couldn’t have been more helpful or hospitable. The huge pineapple plantation that used to be in the crater bowl is gone, replaced by the tourist industry. There are two beautiful luxury type hotels on the island. The Inn at Koele is up in the center of the island near Lanai City and is somewhat reminiscent of the Ahwahnee Lodge in Yosemite. The Manele Bay Hotel overlooking the ocean is equally spectacular in a much different way. We enjoyed a wonderful meal at each. If you want something more economical, yet quaint and with very good food, visit the original 10 room Lanai Hotel up in the city. You can hike, snorkel, play golf, rent a 4-wheel drive car to explore, or just relax. We spent five or so days on Lanai and thoroughly enjoyed it.

The next leg of our passage was the longest, Lanai to Okaoe Bay on the southwest corner of the Big Island. It’s important to arrive during daylight, so we left Lanai at about 1330 hours for an overnight sail and anticipated arrival the following morning. Typically you should expect strong winds and perhaps heavy seas as you pass by the Alenuihaha Channel. That’s another reason for traveling at night, because the winds and seas are often more moderate. A beam or broad reach should serve you well and keep you comfortable through this stretch. We sailed most of the way with one reef in the main, no jib, and were flying. You will probably get wet, but isn’t this what it’s all about? It’s great sailing in shorts with warm weather, even though you’re taking on some spray. Once again, the autopilot does the trick. Marilyn & I each took one hour watches during the night. It’s easy and fun to do for one night. We were advised to keep the wind abaft the beam and it was good advice. There is little point in trying to point up higher, more direct course, because as soon as you get in the wind shadow of Hawaii somewhere off Kona you are almost guaranteed to run out of wind.

Probably, the farther offshore you are, the longer you will be able to sail. You will still have several hours of motoring ahead. We arrived in Okoe Bay at 1930 hours the following morning, and were greeted by another school of spinner dolphins upon entering the Bay! It’s a little intimidating to cross the Anenuihaha Channel, but this was one of the most enjoyable sails of our trip. We were fortunate to have a full moon, twinkling lights from the island, moderating seas and wind conditions. Okoe Bay is very difficult to get to by land and possesses a stark beauty combining turquoise waters with lots of black lava. We spent three days exploring the ruins, hiking on the jumbled lava flow, viewing the blowhole and the breathing rocks, and snorkeling in several of the coves.

Next we headed north to Honaunau or the City of Refuge which is a National Historical Park; a nice park and well worth seeing. There is also very good snorkeling in the little bay. We continued our northward trek to Kealeakua Bay and the Captain Cook Monument. Here, timing is everything. This is a great anchorage, but, since it is now a Marine Life Conservation District and Underwater Park, you are not allowed to anchor. We knew this ahead of time and planned our arrival in Kaawaloa Cove for a little before 1300 hours when the tourist catamaran leaves its mooring and doesn’t return until after 0900 the next day. It’s OK to use their mooring as long as you are out of their way when they return the next morning. It’s really the only way to see the area since you can’t anchor. The cove is teeming with fish as the tour boats feed them regularly. This was one of our favorite spots. We were told there was a yacht club at Keauhou Bay and we could probably tie up there or anchor in their bay. Not so. They are principally a social club and have no guest dock. All the moorings were taken, so we had no other choice but to continue northward to Kailua, Kona.

We made the mistake of calling the infamous harbormaster at Honokohau Harbor. He says he controls the west coast of Hawaii and basically you are not welcome, as there is no room. We were practically ordered to anchor out in Kailua Bay and report to him upon arrival. We suggest you go into Honokohau Harbor, get off your boat, and try to talk face to face to arrange for a berth for a few days. Another option, if your boat needs some work, is to talk to the people at Gentry’s Kona Marina. We were there by land and they seem like nice folks.
The low point of our trip was anchoring in Kailua Bay. It was compounded by the fact that there were tremendous swells coming in offshore from Hurricane John. No winds, but enormous swells. Kailua Bay is a rolly anchorage even in the best of conditions. Since Triumph was rolling from shear to shear, we arranged to use a large commercial mooring that was available, went ashore and stayed in a hotel. Don’t even think about taking your big boat into the pier. Although you can take your dinghy in, the dinghy slips are rented, so they aren’t too happy about having you stay there either. We recommend making arrangements to stay in Honokohau Harbor, and then rent a car to do your land based sightseeing.

Next stop was Kawaihae Harbor. There are quite a few pleasure boats here, but it is primarily a deep-water seaport to provision the island. The harbormaster was very helpful. Matson Navigation has a container barge that comes regularly. When we were there, Kevin Costner and company were filming Water World, one of the year’s biggest flops. Watching all of this held our interest for several days. At the very least, this harbor is a good place to wait for proper conditions to cross the Alenuihaha Channel to Maui. We suggest an early morning departure, continuing north to Upolu Point before crossing the channel. We had a beautiful reach across in 20-25 knots of wind and moderate seas. Your destination should be La Perouse Bay on Maui and you can evaluate whether you think this would be a satisfactory anchorage. We found it to be a little inhospitable and continued on up the western coast to Lahaina. We looked in at Wailea, Kihei, and Maalaea enroute. We didn’t have time, but would like to have seen Molokini Island. Lahaina is a bit touristy, but always fun. The anchorage is rolly, but we’re used to that by now. You might get lucky with a berth in the harbor. It never hurts to ask. After a couple of days, we got one of the Lahaina Yacht Club moorings, rented a car and did all the appropriate tourist things ashore.

Next stop, just for the night, was Honolua Bay on the northwest coast of Maui. This is a very pretty setting, calm and no rolling. There is room for maybe four or five boats. It’s the best jumping off point to cross the Pailolo Channel to Molokai. A 0900 departure on a broad reach got us comfortably across the channel in 20-30 knots of wind. The north shore of Molokai is magnificent with steep cliffs rising from the water; clouds shrouding the peaks and providing the rains that feeds the numerous waterfalls. We had planned to anchor for lunch in the bay near the leper colony in Kalaupapa, but 30-knot winds and rough seas changed our minds. It was delightful sailing with the wind, so why stop? We chose an anchorage for the night, which was tucked around Ilio Point on the northwest coast just off the hotel. From here it’s an easy daysail back to Kaneohe Bay.

Sailing Home

Some say this is the most fun!

Shipping home

Shipping To and From Hawaii

The information provided here is intended to help you arrange to ship:

1. Delivery and cruising equipment, see “I need to ship cruising equipment and sails from the West coast to Oahu and back. What are my options?” in the Frequently Asked Questions section.
2. Your boat home

The cost of shipping may be higher than having your boat sailed home by a professional delivery skipper. On the other hand, shipping will save wear and tear on the boat, sails, and other equipment.

The many changes in the shipping industry have resulted in PCYC not being able to negotiate discounted shipping rates for boats from Hawaii to various ports on the west coast.

There are two shipping companies you should consider.

1. The newest service between Hawaii and the west coast is being provided by PASHA Hawaii Transport Lines. They are able to accommodate a boat on a trailer up to 16 feet high and 20 feet wide.
2. Matson shipping rates are based on "roll on roll off" of the boat which requires the boat be on a trailer and:

• 40 feet or less in length
• 12.5 feet or less in width
• 13.5 feet or less in height
• 18,000 or less pounds
• All of these may be exceeded, for an additional fee

There are several costs to shipping your boat. The biggest one being "ocean freight".

What about other costs? Other boat shipping costs include a terminal handling charge, wharfage (cost of having your boat on the wharf), a fuel surcharge, hauling, unrigging and rigging, and trailering your boat from the marina to the or Matson wharf in Oahu.

The cost of the items you have no control over - terminal handling, wharfage and fuel surcharge - will cost from a few hundred to several hundred dollars depending on your boat.

Hauling, rigging and unrigging your boat in a marina in Oahu, costs about the same as you pay on the mainland. It will also cost another hundred dollars or so to have your boat trailered from the marina to the shipping wharf.

Frequently Asked Questions

So how much will it really cost to ship my boat home?

Costs vary year to year and even within a year there are significant deviations between similar boats shipped at different times. These differences in cost are at times easy to understand and at other times mysterious, but the shipping professionals will help you understand them.

Matson includes in their charges shipping your trailer and a spare mast to Hawaii.

PASHA Hawaii Transport Lines have trailers and cradles available for rent and their price includes pick up from either Keehi or the AlaWai boat yards.

Keep in mind, the cost to have a professional skipper sail your boat home to the West coast is over US$ 8,000 and more typically US$ 10,000. Yes, if you have three weeks free, the willingness to sail upwind for over a week, and a few friends with similar circumstances, you can save money sailing the boat home yourself. But, do not forget to account for wear and tear on the boat.

What ports can I ship from?

With Matson your trailer can be shipped, and boat and trailer returned, from Los Angeles (Port of Long Beach) and San Francisco (Port of Oakland).

PASHA’s routes provide pick up from the major Hawaii ports and San Diego.

What is timing for all this?

You must contact the shipping companies as soon as possible to confirm pricing, arrange shipping your boat, and obtain drop-off details. Both companies have interesting web sites but neither provides pricing information, see Matson at www.matson.com or PASHA at www.pashahawaii.com. Contact:

1. Matson Customer Support at 1-888-362-8766 or conventional@matson.com.
2. PASHA Hawaii Transport Lines at 1-800-288-5289.
3. You might get a better rate if you tell them you are with the West Marine Pacific Cup.

Matson ships go back and forth from Oahu all the time making several stops along the West Coast and at times a few stops in Hawaii. Typically a ship leaves the West Coast every week or so, and depending on the West Coast port, takes four to ten days to reach Oahu. They have two ships each week to Oakland, two each week to Long Beach, and one (usually) to Seattle.

Pasha takes six days enroute, sails every two weeks, and has sailings scheduled out of Hawaii on July 18, August 1, and August 15 in 2006. Pasha takes boats on trailers or cradles. Included in the charges is the shipping of the customers' trailers and a spare mast . They shipped a number of Transpac boats last year including a 92 foot maxi Genuine Risk and Pyewacket.

You should plan on dropping your trailer off at the West coast port in the week or two before the race starts, and it will be waiting for you in Honolulu when you finish the race.

We recommend you get your boat from Kaneohe to the boatyard of your choice in Honolulu by Wednesday July 19th, and schedule to have your boat hauled and trailered to the Matson wharf by Thursday July 20th. Having all this work done before the Friday Awards Banquet and before your crew has left for home, makes for a much more enjoyable party. To sail from Kaneohe Bay to Honolulu takes most of a day.

Where do I drop-off and pick-up my trailer or trailer and boat on the West Coast and in Hawaii?

It depends on which shipping company you use, contact them as soon as possible. Matson or PASHA will provide you address and timing details.

What boatyards can I use to haul my boat in Hawaii?

There are two large boatyards on Oahu, Ala Wai Marine and Keehi Marine Center.

Ala Wai Marine
Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Honolulu
1-808-946-4213

Keehi Marine Center
24 Sand Island Access Rd, Honolulu
1-808-845-6465

We strongly recommend you make arrangements for hauling your boat with one of these boatyards a few months before the race. There are only a very few marinas on Oahu and they can, at times, get very busy and run out of space.

How do I get my boat and trailer (in Hawaii) from the boatyard to the Matson wharf?

We suggest you use Todd Liddy (+1-808-988-5650 and +1-808-306-8788 mobile; 2918 Kolomona Place, Honolulu, HI 96822) to pull your trailer from the wharf to the boatyard as well as move your boat and trailer from the boatyard to the wharf (or haul your boat using the Kaneohe Yacht Club ramp). Many past entrants have used Todd and found his rates are reasonable. If you will be using Todd to move your boat, be sure to consign your trailer to the shipping company under his name. You may also choose to do it yourself by renting a truck with a trailer hitch, such as from U-Haul.

Can I haul my boat at Kaneohe Yacht Club?

You may use the ramp or the hoists, but no participating vessels over 3,000 pounds may use KYC hoists. KYC will make its hoist available for boats with a maximum weight limit of 3,000 lbs. Any boat using a hoist must provide its own trailer. No commercial "tractor-trailer rigs" will be allowed. Permission to hoist must be requested and approved by the KYC Port Captain and supervised by the KYC Port Captain or his representative. Boats that can be hauled out with a trailer on the ramp will be allowed to do so upon prior approval by the Port Captain and at their own risk.

I don't have a trailer. What are my options?

"Roll on roll off" shipping rates, require a trailer. A boat on a cradle requires a lot more coordination and work, including cranes, so costs might go through the roof. Where can you get a trailer? We suggest you call local boatyards and yacht brokers about borrowing/renting a trailer. Owners of boats as large as an Express 37 have found trailers to borrow. Note that PASHA has trailers and cradles available for rent.

I need to ship cruising equipment and sails from the West coast to Oahu and back. What are my options?

There are a number of companies that ship equipment back and forth to Oahu on a regular basis. We have had good luck with:

1. Hawaiian Express Service. 3623 Munster Ave., Hayward, CA 94545, 510-783-6100.
2. Honolulu Freight, 2964 Alvarado St. Unit K, San Leandro, CA 94577, 510-614-2100

You can drive to their office just before the start of the race and drop off your equipment reasonably protected but essentially "as is". They will shrink wrap it on a pallet and deliver it to their wharf in Honolulu (where you'll need to pick it up). Their current price to ship equipment to Hawaii is US$ 6.26 per cubic foot plus a 2.25% fuel surcharge.

Note you cannot ship equipment direct to Kaneohe Yacht Club. Kaneohe Yacht Club has no storage facilities for your equipment and will not sign for any shipments.

I want to keep my boat in Hawaii a few months before shipping it home. Do you have any recommendations?

There are very few small boat marinas in Hawaii. There are three marinas on Oahu we can recommend you contact if you are planning to keep your boat on Hawaii for a week or two - Ala Wai, Keehi and Ko Olina. The Ala Wai is currently undergoing major reconstruction which is displacing a large number of Hawaiian boats and filling virtually all marinas on Oahu. This means it will take a bit of work on your part to find short term berthing for your boat - and will be difficult to impossible to obtain long term berthing. If you need long term berthing, you may need to consider having your boat hauled and kept on the hard.

Ala Wai Marine
Ala Wai Boat Harbor, Honolulu
1-808-946-4213

Keehi Marine Center
24 Sand Island Access Rd, Honolulu
1-808-845-6465

Ko Olina Marina
92-100 Waipahe Place
Ko Olina, Hawaii 96707
1-808-679-1050
Email: info@koolinamarina.com
http://www.koolinamarina.com/
GPS: Lat. 21 N. & Long. 158 W

Make berthing arrangements early. The Ala Wai and Keehi are "urban" marinas with Ko Olina being a resort/tropical. You can keep your boat at Kaneohe Yacht Club for one week - but must move on by July 24th.

I have more questions about shipping my boat. Who can I talk to?

For more information about shipping your boat home, contact the West Marine Pacific Cup Boat Shipping Chairperson, Bob Nance, at ROBERTNANCE@msn.com or at his office +1-916-446-1588. Bob has shipped his boat back several times and is a wealth of information on this subject.

Contacts

Matson Customer Support
Shelly Boswell
Conventional Cargo Dept.
Ph: 1- 888-362-8766
conventional@matson.com
Boat shipping

PASHA Hawaii Transport Lines
1-800-678-3759
www.pashahawaii.com
Boat shipping

Trailer Moving in Hawaii
Todd Liddy +1-808-988-5650
Boat and trailer moving (in Hawaii)
or +1-808-306-8788 mobile

Equipment Shipping to Hawaii
Hawaiian Express Lines
+1-510-783-6100

Ala Wai Marine
+1-808-946-4213
Boat hauling and repair

Keehi Marine Center
+1-808-845-6465